I've searched and read almost every thread here and at FABO and still have no clue. Installed HEI per the write up and she won't start, have no spark. I think my issue may be with the pick up wiring but not sure. I tried swapping the terminals around but it didn't help. I have 12v to the coil ok but not sure if I'm getting voltage out of the module to the distributor. Everything is brand new and used all the Standard Motor Products parts listed in the tech write up. Can somebody tell me how to check if the proper current/signals are coming out of the the module, to the distributor and back? Any and all input is greatly appreciated! Btw, great site!

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"

Hey Mr. S,
Have looked at your other two posts and can't help you much on them because the HEI System that is presently running on Lorrie Van Haul doesn't have all the relays that you have included, but maybe this will help as it is the absolute simplest circuit diagram of the HEI components:



Also, this circuit diagram is expanded to include the Start, Run, and Charge system:


When Lorrie's HEI System was first installed, she wouldn't start either. There was ONE "BIG" thing that apparently was ABSOLUTELY necessary, and that was that the Reluctor Air Gap had to be adjusted to PRECISELY 0.010". And this has to be done with a set of Brass Feeler Guages. As soon as that was done, Lorrie started right up.
Make sure that the Control Module is getting a full 12 Volts. This can be done by using a MultiTester with the Red Probe in the Fitting on the Wire that powers the Control Module (B Terminal), and the Black Probe grounded. The 12 Volts goes from there to the + Terminal of the Ignition Coil.
HTH. Good luck.


JC

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Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Welcome aboard,

There is a lot of questions etc regarding the HEI swap but it is not that hard for sure.

Instead of all 4 posts, Id just combine it all into one for ease of searching by others later on. Now, onto the fun:

Simplify some of the process here.
Do simple checks such as, power to the relay and also out of the relay.
Making sure the relay is closing.
Verify power to the module.
Verify power at the coil positive.
Do away with the ballast resistor.
I use my relay to feed both the new coil and the module to make that part easier.
Verify the air gap as mentioned.
Also dont forget to regap the plugs.
To make things easier, pull a plug (regap anyway) and set it so you can see if theres fire.
Another one that wasnt mentioned, is if you have swapped dizzys then make sure its set right and not a tooth or two off.
Use timing gun to check timing once spark is seen.

These should give you places to start, finding the one simple thing thats keeping it from running.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13

Not sure which issue it was but she's running now.

I cross jumped the top 2 terminal wires at the ballast resistor and spliced into that to feed the relay "trigger" source.

I added an additonal ground wire from the module to my relay ground instead of just grounded through the mount.

And, what I think was the real culprit...

As it turns out, you DO need to have the OEM coil + terminal connected in addition to the HEI "B" terminal to coil + to the coil. This, apparently, is necessary for the start/kill circuit.

Still gotta change cap/rotor, plug wires and regap the plugs. Thanks for all the help and advice!

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1974 Dodge Dart, 225cid, A904, Factory A/C, "Special Edition"