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| Block ID help with numbers https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56795 |
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| Author: | Reed [ Fri Dec 26, 2014 3:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Block ID help with numbers |
Today Zorg kindly gave me two 904s and a 225 from his shop. I have already ID'd the 904s as coming out of a 74 car and a late 72 car, but I need some help ID-ing the engine. It is a 2806830-6 block (68-75 five freeze plugs 225/198 bock) but the numbers stamped on the engine id pad under the alternator me to believe that it *might* be a 198 (sorry Zorg if it is!). The numbers on the ID pad under the alternator are: GW 198R 3449 0200 The motor was a Jasper reman and has "225" written on the trans end of the crank, so it probably is a 225 (or at least it is now), but I am curious if it might be a 198. Can anyone help me decode those numbers? My books are in my storage unit. Thanks! |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 10:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
After going back over older threads about the numbers stamped on the block on the pad below the alternator, it appears that this engine was originally built as a 198. However, given that the 198 an the 225 share the same block, and given that the engine has ben remanufactured by Jasper and Jasper wrote on the crank that it is a 225, I guess the only way to tell if it is a 198 or a 225 without pulling the pan and measuring the length of the connecting rods will be to measure the stroke with the head off. |
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| Author: | Doctor Dodge [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 12:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You can take a stroke measurement with a piece of stiff wire... inserted thru the spark plug hole. DD |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 1:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Actually, the motor didn't come with a head, so I have direct acess to the pistons already. Of course, it doesn't have a flex plate or a damper on it, so I need to run a bolt into the end of the crank snout to turn the crank. First step is getting it off the trailer and out of the rain so it doesn't rust up. I covered it with a tarp last night but there already was some very light flash rusting in one bore.  If it IS a 198, then I think I might be building a long-rod motor. 
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat Dec 27, 2014 6:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Well, I need to go buy a lottery ticket, right now. |
I got the engine on a stand and learned two things: (1) it is MUCH easier to get a short block on an engine stand with some kind of lift or hoist than it is without (I pretty much already knew this, but I just confirmed it tonight); and, more importantly, (2) my rough measurement from the top of the piston to the middle of the combustion burn ring on the cylinder wall was roughly 3.5 inches. Definitely not 3.1 (170) or 4.1 (225) inches. It looks like I got a 198!  Zorg gave me the engine (THANKS!) and told me that it was a remanufactured engine that lost oil pressure and developed a rod knock. I threw a spare damper on the end of the crank so I could turn the crank over. While I was turning the crank I definitely heard a bottom end clunk. By carefully rotating the crank while feeling each piston, I tracked the clunk down to the #3 piston. At BDC, there is about 5 degrees of crank movement before the piston starts to move. I am expecting some crank carnage and a missing bearing when I finally get around to pulling the pan, but if the connecting rods are in good shape then I figure I am still ahead of the game. Now to figure out how to build a long rod motor configured for daily driver in a heavy vehicle.... |
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