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| new to /6 org. 225 swap https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56932 |
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| Author: | qwksi1 [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | new to /6 org. 225 swap |
After getting some help on identifying my blown up engine in my 68 valiant by Slantsixdan, I have found a replacement engine. I have an engine from a '77 volare that I would like to swap in. I would like to reuse my holley onto the '77 engine. Does anyone know off hand if it will bolt to the '77 intake manifold? Any other things I should look for would be appreciated. I will also be attempting to reuse my points ingnition setup until I get the car running and then change to electronic. This will be my first engine change in any car, although I have experience with my father and I am decently mechanically inclined. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Yep... |
If the engine is a 1968, the 1977 should bolt right with no fuss, you might want to make sure to check TDC on the '77 while it's outside the car and swap your distributor over while you have room to move (save the 1977 distributor if original it will be a good core for your EI swap later). Your Holley (1920 right?), will work, but the you will need to look at the pocket that your choke pull off bolts to on the original exhaust manifold and compare to the 1977, they may not be compatible which will force you to go with the other car's carb/ swap manifolds/ manual choke or alterante.... typically the work around for having a Holley 1920 on the late manifolds was to use the pull off from a 1973 Valiant/Duster/Dart which was a one year only item before the Holley 1945 and pull off changed in 1974...Standard Motor Products no longer makes them so unless you can find NOS or one gathering dust on a backshelf in a local mom and pop auto parts shop, you may need to go with some alternates. Good luck on the swap, thanks to the digital age I would suggest taking pics of your engine bay and where all the wires and hoses go, so when you slide the new engine in you can compare and hook everything back the way it was without having a mystery wire and 30 minutes of headscratching... |
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| Author: | qwksi1 [ Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the reply. It is a 1920. I saw that the base gaskets looked different so I wasn't sure that It would bolt on so I ordered both gaskets. I may just leave it alone and see how this carb works before going and changing it. It appears to be a reman at some point but the engine looks like its sat awhile but supposedly the PO said it ran well when pulled. I will change the distributor while its out also. |
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| Author: | cpslntdchrg [ Fri Jan 16, 2015 6:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
What about the EGR? should he unistall it and put a blind? I know the 1973+ 1920 carbs base (at least) are slightly different than the 1969, so I'm not sure if that can bring him trouble. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If the previous engine was running well, and its manifold heat control valve was working (or can be freed up so it works) then it's a fine idea to swap the intake and exhaust manifolds and the carburetor onto the new engine, thus removing a collection of variables that can complicate the swap and delay returning the car to reliable use. It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions. Also a very good idea to check the '77 engine for timing chain slop. Much easier to replace the timing chain with the engine out than with it installed. |
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