Hello, new to the forum. Just bought a 64 valiant V100 wagon, 170 ,auto on column. Got it home and with a good battery and new fuel filter the thing purrs. Little smoke but I'll get to that. Previous owner though block was cracked but I discovered water was coming out freeze plugs, one visible and one under intake and exhaust manifold. What size are these freeze plugs and where is the best place to buy? Also, the plug I can't see I know I'm going to have to pull intake and exhaust, possibly the head to do it in the car? Any tips on removing and replacing these in the car. Thanks in advance.

Baracus, welcome to the site. This is one of the hard jobs, getting to the plugs! A good parts house will have the plugs. Removing the intake and exhaust is challenging with new parts but after these get some rust on them, it's easy to snap them off and then the job gets harder. You don't need to remove the head. Soak all the nuts on the studs holding the exhaust and intake to the head. There are 3 bolts holding the intake to the exhaust that are very hard to soak with rust buster so you might leave them alone and remove the intake and exhaust as one part. Go slow and you might get lucky. I have removed heads with the manifolds attached. Then on the bench you can get to all the nuts. You need to use sockets or box end wrenches to keep from rounding nuts. Good Luck!

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Hyper_pak

6-point sockets are preferable to reduce the chance of rounding the nuts. You'll need a long extension, a little finesse, and maybe a U-joint to get to a couple of the nuts in the center of the bottom row. Sometimes the studs will come out with the nuts. If this happens, you may lose some coolant depending on which stud it is. Make sure to use thread sealer or loc-tite when reinstalling these studs.

When you're putting the manifolds back on, loosen the 3 intake to exhaust bolts first. Tighten the nuts that connect the manifolds to the head before you re-tighten these 3. Use a torque wrench on the mounting nuts to the head. The manual calls for 15 ft-lbs. If your exhaust leaks afterward due to less-than perfect mounting surfaces (it probably will...), you can go a little tighter than that, but go too tight and the exhaust manifold will crack when it gets hot. On mine I think I always end up tightening to 20 ft-lbs, but that's with the stock Fel-pro gasket. There are more expensive gaskets out there that can supposedly make up for this, but I have no experience with them.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Hey guys thanks for ur replys and advice, much appreciated. Have a few other questions. Are parts between the 170 and 225 slant six the same? Parts such as intake and exhaust manifolds, distributers, heads etc. Not worried about internals like pistons, just more gasket and tune-up parts. Reason I ask is I can't find parts at chain stores for a 64 170 but I can for a 80s 225. Rock auto had everything I needed but the shipping was almost more than the parts so I'm trying to find some locally, thanks again.

The basic difference is a one inch longer stroke. So most of the stuff is the same. Exhaust and intake are the same. Dist, water pump, alt, gaskets, etc

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Hyper_pak