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lifters stuck, how the heck?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57152		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  pishta [ Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:05 pm ]
Post subject:  lifters stuck, how the heck?
OK, im pulling my stockers for a Comp Cams bumpstick and barrel solid lifters. My dumb-bell circa 1960 lifters are stuck fast where the cam lift stops. How can I get them out without removing the pan (a major undertaking in this 65 A car) I got 2 out with a magnet and a coathanger (magnet got them up until I could hook the oil band with a coathanger and even that was a stiff pull) the lifters are smooth inside so there is no way to hook the insides with an internal lifter puller and the outside is smooth. any suggestions? I sprayed 1/4 can of WD-40 fown there and worked each lifter up and down about 100 times but none are budging past the varnish band. The 2 that came out were pretty clean, but obviously worn concave.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Long needle nose pliers...
I've never had a problem pulling those guys out in a high miler varnished to gunk engine using a really long nosed set of needle nose pliers, as long as you can get a part of the upper outside rim on the lifter it should go if you pull slow and steady. I've even used a set of expandible pliers (you grip and the tips move away from each other) and gotten a part of the inside enough to pull then take over with the magnetic probe.
Author:  Reed [ Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Several years ago I replaced the cam in my brother's slant powered 83 Dodge van. The lifters wouldn't come out the top of the bore so I got a strong magnet on a telescoping extension and pushed them out the bottom and caught them with the magnet. All 12 made it out and none were dropped in the pan. Just a thought.
Author:  pishta [ Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
OK, how did you get the cam out when the lifters were still in there? Did you prop them up then send them down when the cam was pulled? I ended up getting all of them out with my magnet, coathanger and a spray bottle of mineral spirits. Doused them with MS, then worked them a few times, then hit them all again with spray lube. I had to manually ;ift them as far as they would go, then force them back down again with a coathanger, and repeat while turning them a few degrees. It took me an hour but it was not too bad, my classic rock station was going off with tunes and I was just listening and working the lifters up and down. Those lifters were toast as well as the cam. But the car still ran like a watch.
Author:  nm9stheham [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:31 am ]
Post subject: 
Glad you got them out from topside. I had to beat mine out with a maple dowel and a machinist's hammer from the bottom.. the engine's varnish was beyond belief. (The result of an unattended carb leak for maybe 20-25 years?) But the lifters were still in good shape LOL.
Author:  Reed [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:38 am ]
Post subject: 
I rotated the cam as I pulled it out and pushed the lifters up and out of the way as well as using a magnet from the top to pul the lifters as far up in the bore as they would go. Definitely not the preferred method of removing the lifters, but it worked in a pinch.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 9:42 am ]
Post subject: 
WD-40 is useless in just about any/all applications. Mineral spirits might work eventually (soak for days). If you have a lot of varnish in a tight space you need to cut in a short time, use heavy-duty tools: Kroil or Mopar solvent p/n 4318039AC.
Author:  Dart270 [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:14 am ]
Post subject: 
I have used needle nose pliers or locking needle noses.

Lou
Author:  pishta [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 4:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
WD40 was a generic term for penetrating oil that we use in the phone biz. Seemed to help more than the spirits. each lifter took me about 10 minutes as the magnet was not that strong. Now I have to remove the oil pump, walk in the park...do I have to raise the motor?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 5:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
WD-40 is not a generic term. It's one specific product.
Author:  Reed [ Tue Feb 24, 2015 5:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
WD40 was a generic term for penetrating oil that we use in the phone biz.

OK, but WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. WD stands for "water displacement." About the only thing WD-40 is designed to do is displace water, such as out of a distributor or spark plugs. True penetraing oils are products like Knock 'Er Loose, PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench.
Author:  nm9stheham [ Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Motor raising for the pump all depends on the car. The depth of the shaft into the block is maybe 3" or thereabouts.
Author:  pishta [ Wed Feb 25, 2015 4:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
WD-40 is not a generic term. It's one specific product.
Yeah Dan, I know but thanks for the reminder.

To those who say is has no lubricating properties...

"...While WD-40® Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients (>50% refined mineral spirits)..." so yes. it will quiet a squeaky hinge and keep it quiet for many moons.

"..WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.."

OK back on topic...

Thanks for the tips on removing stuck lifters. I hope I contributed with my solution, even though its material call out wasn't editor accurate. For the record the "Telco spray lubricant and protector" I used and referenced as WD40 lists as its functionality: "displaces moisture, dielectric, penetrating lubricant and protectant" hey, same as WD40! :-|
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Feb 25, 2015 4:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
A lot of companies make a lot of claims for a lot of products. Many of those claims aren't true. It's a simple yet powerful marketing technique known as lying.
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