Quote:
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html
My new project..........
| Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| Fuel gauge or sending unit https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57352 |
Page 1 of 2 |
| Author: | camiking23 [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Fuel gauge or sending unit |
My fuel gauge kinda sorta works. It has plenty of issues I've coped with it but tired of the guessing game. It's empty at 1/4 tank of gas. When I put it in gear it drops then rises back to whatever it was on before. Does this same thing when stopping at a light or going in to park. Is this the gauge or sending unit? |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 2:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have you replaced the voltage regulator on the instrument cluster? |
|
| Author: | camiking23 [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Under the hood |
The one under the hood? Or is it another one |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is a regulator/limiter behind the dash that regulates the power in the circuit board. Depending on your year model its one of these. The last one is the one I use in my truck. http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... b2000.html http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... b2001.html http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... vr607.html |
|
| Author: | camiking23 [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
It's a 80 D150 |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ouch! $36 is pricey! If you search on this board or around the web you can find several alternatives that use modern electronics to replace the instrument cluster voltage regulator. |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: It's a 80 D150
Ok then this is what it looks like.http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,4885 It is the same one my truck uses. I forgot rock auto is cheaper than classic industrys...... but not by much. I look around for some cheaper ones. |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 5:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah sorry but rock auto is the cheapest. Also you should be aware that the circuit boards on these old trucks tend to melt. So if you see any extras in the junk yard grab them. It happens when the voltage regulator in the alternator gos out. Some times the wires on the Amp meter get loose as well. I put a lock washer on mine. Check all of these while you have it out. |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 6:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html
My new project.......... |
|
| Author: | camiking23 [ Tue Mar 24, 2015 7:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Another question |
Could the broken or fried instrument cluster voltage regulator also be why my dash lights are so dim? |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Tue Mar 24, 2015 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Another question |
Quote: Could the broken or fried instrument cluster voltage regulator also be why my dash lights are so dim?
Does your dimmer switch work well? Also what does your amp gauge show? Does it fluctuate?
|
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Wed Mar 25, 2015 4:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Could the broken or fried instrument cluster voltage regulator also be why my dash lights are so dim?
No.Dash light level and dome lights are controlled via rheostat integral to headlight switch; dash lights by orange wire if I remember correctly, and dome light circuit uses yellow conductor. Only temperature & fuel gage's function are powered by voltage limiter and their circuit is independent from lighting. Voltage limiter supplies about 5 volts. To improve light output clean bulb holder's electrical connections, headlight switch rheostat with pot cleaner, and wash plastic bulb shielding. Keep in mind that these old school dash boards never produced the light levels now common in modern cars. |
|
| Author: | nm9stheham [ Wed Mar 25, 2015 6:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
OP, the variations in the fuel level when stopping or accelerating are due to movement of the fuel back and forth in the tank. The needle should move rather slowly due the fact that these are thermal movement gauges. I would suspect the sender in the tank first. The regulator is basically working but might be off. To test the sender, use an ohmmeter, and measure the sender resistance from the connection on the tank to the tank sender's base; clean off a spot so you can make a good contact on the base. This should read approximately as follows: Full - 10 ohms 1/2 tank - 24 ohms Empty - 72 ohms If the sender is OK, then the voltage limiter could be out of calibration; it does not appear to be plain broken since you get some readings. Or, the gauge itself may be off. Testing the limiter and gauge separately is a bit more involved. |
|
| Author: | camiking23 [ Wed Mar 25, 2015 6:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes the dimmer switch works. The amp meter goes more to the right while the engine is running and bounces back a nug when I turn the lights on |
|
| Page 1 of 2 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|