Afternoon brothers!

So here is a quick backround

-65 valiant rebuilt 225,
-10 inch clutch just put in when conversion was done (Past couple weekends)
-bought a local 833 which was unknown condition but when opened looked ok. Fluid was decent color, no chipped gears, levers on outside operated fine.
- Got the Hurst pro comp shifter with 65 rods from Mr. Dutra which
transmission is in, shifter feels like it could use a freshen up but it shifts fine i to all gears (Watching them from inside through the large hole) However!

When i start the engine suddenly all gears are locked out it feels. It doesnt grind unless reverse is attempted. Just locked out.
i shut the engine off and gears work again? I am rather confused by this and am very ready to drive!!

Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
-adam

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AGriff89

Did you grease the zirk fitting? lol
Mine grinds a little going into reverse as well, but I have never had it lock up.

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~Nic

Clutch is not disengaging.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Vote # 2 that the clutch is "hanging-up" and not releasing.
Did you use the special reduced head "tower" type pressure plate bolts needed for the 10" clutch?

The standard 1/2 head bolts will interfere with the edge of the 10" disc and prevent it from releasing.

Remove the dust cover and inspect.
DD

I used the standard 1/2 inch bolts which came off the 9 1/4. Are these early mopar special as in probably you might only have? Or a special but store obtainable fastener?

Thank you all for help in this.
So close but without gears...so far hah

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AGriff89

I have some of the factory bolts.... but...

You can get some common 'grade 8' Allen head cap screw with the 5/16-18 unc thread and those should clear the edge of the disc.
Or... a pack of reduced head "header flange" bolts may also work.
DD

Thank you kindly for the image as well

So if im understanding this correctly the 1/2 bolts ive got on now are to wide of a head in such tight places (difficult to torque without socket bite) and are interfering with the clutch operation?

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AGriff89

another possibility is the tranny pilot shaft is locked into the bushing that is in
the rear of the crank..

that condition is caused by cranks that have the tranny pilot shaft bushing hole drilled, but not honed to size,,

are you using a crank that has previously ran with an manual tranny

Can you start the engine with the transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged?

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Joshua

tried this by putting it in gear and starting it holding the clutch in, it made a very weird noise when releasing clutch so i shut it down and put her back in nutral.

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AGriff89

Do you have the clutch disc in backwards?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Time to open it up and inspect! If it's just the clutch cover bolts it's easy and can be done with the trans in the car.

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Joshua

A possibility, however i was pretty certain i put it in correctly as it was embossed "flywheel" on one side so i put it on that way.

I sure hope its the bolts...

Thank you everyone for the input, ill post any results after i get under her a bit.

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AGriff89

Yes, the previous transmission up until now has been the a903, crank was turned recently 20/20 by a reputable machine shop. Bushing is a thinker though.

Bushing was put in when the build happened so hopefully not. Used a thin skin of grease on the splines of the transmission
During a833 swap I used the same bushing (didnt remove). Suppose that could be an issue?

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AGriff89

the a903 is a manual, so you should be ok, but this is what I ran into..

when I built the 83 D150,, which was an 833 manual tranny from the factory, I swapped the OE 83 cast crank for a heavy early cast crank,

the early cast crank had the pilot hole drilled to depth, I measured the depth but did not have a bushing installed,, the pilot hole accepted a bushing without much issue and in installing the tranny to engine,
the tranny pilot went into the crank bushing..

however when it was all together I could start the engine with the clutch in or the tranny in neutral,, but there was no way to get it into gear,,
with the engine off, not running, the tranny shifted fine..

pulled the engine,,, looked closely at the bushing, I could see where the bushing was deformed, locked on to the pilot shaft,,

I pulled out the in bore crank pilot bushing and swapped in the crank flange ( Dakota I think) pilot shaft bearing,, and I was back in the game

If this end up being the issue you are facing I can dig out the crank flange
bearing number,, or someone will chime in with that.

good luck,,