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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 3:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:45 am
Posts: 14
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Car Model: 1966 Dodge D300 with 225 slant
Hello all,

I have a 1966 Dodge D300 with the 3.7L 225 Slant. I recently acquired the truck from my deceased great grandpa. My hope is to restore it to drivable condition.

THE PROBLEM:

The truck has the remote oil canister filter on it. The lid to the oil filter holder is tight and the gasket is in good condition. The truck spews oil out of the top of the filter holder from under the lid, especially right after the motor is shut off. I tried tightening the lid with no results. I attempted to replace the cartridge filter with a new WIX 51076. I believe this is the correct filter. The new filter did not change my results.

I took the lid off, removed the canister filter and replaced the lid (sans filter). I then started the motor and there was no leaking, even after I shut it off. Replaced the filter and it was back to leaking.

I am new to fixing vehicles, but I have moderate mechanical skill and with decent directions, should be able to figure this out. Any help would be great.

Thanks
Scott

_________________
1966 Dodge D300 with 225 3.7L
Scott C.
A family restoration and education project.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 5:09 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
Car Model:
Welcome to the board. There are a couple different kinds of replaceable-element oil filter canisters. How to fix the problem depends on which kind you have. Please post a picture of yours (or email it to me).

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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Last edited by SlantSixDan on Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: images of filter holder
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:40 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:45 am
Posts: 14
Location: Lake Worth, Florida
Car Model: 1966 Dodge D300 with 225 slant
The cap has just a spring inside it and the gasket. There isn't a cap screw.

Dan, I emailed you the pics of the filter housing and cap.[/img]

_________________
1966 Dodge D300 with 225 3.7L
Scott C.
A family restoration and education project.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:52 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
Car Model:
Got the pics. That's the 2nd type of canister mentioned and pictured here. It's not remote, actually, it's perched right on the oil pump. Note it can be damaged beyond effective repair if the lid is overtightened (and even if not overtightened, after enough years of being tightened to the correct point enough slop will develop that they'll leak anyhow). You might try a new, correctly-sized(!) and oilproof(!) O-ring in the lid.

As I mentioned in email, the quickest and easiest fix is going to be to use an oil filter wrench (the strap type) to unscrew the canister from the oil pump and simply start using spin-on oil filters such as Wix 51515 (NAPA 1515) if you find a standpipe screwed into the oil pump when you remove the filter -- or it may come off with the canister and you then have to unscrew it from the canister and screw it back into the oil pump -- or Wix 51806 (NAPA 1806) if you have just a short threaded fitting with no standpipe.

It's possible your canister is just finally worn out -- if so, and you want to keep that type, I have a new one on the shelf.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 11:32 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
Car Model:
Update (and not a very welcome one):

The probable reason why you're having this leak is because you've got the wrong filter element in the canister, and that's because the right one is no longer manufactured. The one you got (Wix 51076, NAPA 1076, Fram CH-236APL, Chrysler 2129023, Mopar L71, etc.) has a flat surface on both ends. It's for the older type of canister with the bolt-on lid. The one you need (Chrysler 2532752, Baldwin P272, Mopar L128, AC PF370) has a stubby pipe protruding from one end, to fit in a matching receptacle at the bottom of the canister. Here are pics of a (NOS) replacement element of the type needed for that later type of canister:

Image

Image

(Also interesting to note this element comes with a new lid O-ring and a rubber antidrainback flap to be installed between the bottom of the element and the floor of the canister).

It's beyond doubt there are large stashes of these filters on shelf at various old-parts places, but they are no longer a parts store item. Running any of the numbers into the online interchanges comes up zero (Wix, Baldwin, Fleetgard, Fram, etc).

So, at least for now, take off the canister and put on a spin-on.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Image


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