Prior to ordering an electronic choke kit, I did my best to familiarize myself with the pertinent electrical section of my new FSM Manual for my 1963 Valiant (170 ci).

Instructions in the new kit state: "Connect BLACK wire to the key side (Not Distributor Side) of the ignition coil ballast resistor. Or, can be spliced onto any 12 volt service which is turned on and off by key, such as carb, idle stop solenoid."

According to my FSM, attached to the opposite side of the ballast resistor from the distributor side, are two wires (both dark blue in color). One makes the J-2 connection between the "Starter and Ignition Switch" via the bulkhead connector, and the second makes up the R-5 connection between the ballast resistor and the BATT terminal on the Alternator (Voltage) regulator.

Due largely to the fact that I am very nervous novice, am I presuming correctly that I should splice into the J-2 wire to power the new electronic choke?

As an aside: where can I order various connectors that allow me to replace crumbling plastic ones? Example: The two wires connecting the ignition side of the ballast join the ballast resister via a rectangular plastic connector which crumbled to pieces the first time I attempted to remove it from the ballast.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

One place I have used in past for electrical widgets you are looking for is here.

Connecting an electric choke to the 12 volt side of ballast resistor creates a parallel path to ground and changes voltage that the coil sees. So the work around is to use ignition key activated 12 volt tap at ballast resistor to energize a low current draw relay that will supply 12 volts and sufficient current from battery, or starter relay terminal to feed the constant draw high renitence choke heater bi metal coil. This set-up will allow ignition circuit and electric choke to play well together.

For more than enough detail, and a sure cure for insomnia look here, and here, and here

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While awaiting a response to my initial inquiry, and after turning on the ignition, I tested each wire leading from/to the ballast resister. The J-2 circuit and R-5 circuit lit my test light up brightly, but the two wires on the other side of the ballast tested dimly....guess the ballast resister was working at least.

I think I understood some of your response to my inquiry and I will proceed as follows: for power to the new electric choke I will splice into the blue 16GA wire (J-2) circuit, since it connects the ballast resistor (via the bulkhead connector) to Starter and Ignition Switch.

I will post my results. Thank you.

Be sure to make good splices. Those fold-over-and-crunch "Scotchlock" splices are an electrical failure (or worse) waiting to happen; much better to use Posi-Taps unless you're going to go full-on old-school pro and solder.

It's extra work to use a relay rather than directly tapping the choke power feed into that ignition wire, but it's a good idea.

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