My fuel gauge kinda sorta works. It has plenty of issues I've coped with it but tired of the guessing game. It's empty at 1/4 tank of gas. When I put it in gear it drops then rises back to whatever it was on before. Does this same thing when stopping at a light or going in to park. Is this the gauge or sending unit?

Have you replaced the voltage regulator on the instrument cluster?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

The one under the hood? Or is it another one

There is a regulator/limiter behind the dash that regulates the power in the circuit board. Depending on your year model its one of these. The last one is the one I use in my truck.
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... b2000.html
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... b2001.html
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... vr607.html

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~Nic

It's a 80 D150

Ouch! $36 is pricey! If you search on this board or around the web you can find several alternatives that use modern electronics to replace the instrument cluster voltage regulator.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Ok then this is what it looks like.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,4885
It is the same one my truck uses. I forgot rock auto is cheaper than classic industrys...... but not by much. I look around for some cheaper ones.

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~Nic

Yeah sorry but rock auto is the cheapest. Also you should be aware that the circuit boards on these old trucks tend to melt. So if you see any extras in the junk yard grab them. It happens when the voltage regulator in the alternator gos out. Some times the wires on the Amp meter get loose as well. I put a lock washer on mine. Check all of these while you have it out.

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~Nic

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

My new project..........

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~Nic

Could the broken or fried instrument cluster voltage regulator also be why my dash lights are so dim?

Does your dimmer switch work well? Also what does your amp gauge show? Does it fluctuate?

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~Nic

No.

Dash light level and dome lights are controlled via rheostat integral to headlight switch; dash lights by orange wire if I remember correctly, and dome light circuit uses yellow conductor.

Only temperature & fuel gage's function are powered by voltage limiter and their circuit is independent from lighting. Voltage limiter supplies about 5 volts.

To improve light output clean bulb holder's electrical connections, headlight switch rheostat with pot cleaner, and wash plastic bulb shielding. Keep in mind that these old school dash boards never produced the light levels now common in modern cars.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

OP, the variations in the fuel level when stopping or accelerating are due to movement of the fuel back and forth in the tank. The needle should move rather slowly due the fact that these are thermal movement gauges.

I would suspect the sender in the tank first. The regulator is basically working but might be off.

To test the sender, use an ohmmeter, and measure the sender resistance from the connection on the tank to the tank sender's base; clean off a spot so you can make a good contact on the base. This should read approximately as follows:
Full - 10 ohms
1/2 tank - 24 ohms
Empty - 72 ohms

If the sender is OK, then the voltage limiter could be out of calibration; it does not appear to be plain broken since you get some readings. Or, the gauge itself may be off. Testing the limiter and gauge separately is a bit more involved.

Yes the dimmer switch works. The amp meter goes more to the right while the engine is running and bounces back a nug when I turn the lights on