I put some money down on a true garage find. 85,000 original miles, second owner car. It was pulled out after the owner went into assisted living. Limited rust (not the worst I've seen) but will need to address it.
Interior is nearly perfect. The guy I am getting it from got it running and ran it all last fall but it quit running due to several valves freezing up. The push rods were bent from that.
By the way it is a 1962 Valiant 4 door with the 170 and a turbo flight push button.
I plan on rebuilding the head-what should I be on the lookout for? I know the guides need replacing. I would like to change the intake and exhaust manifolds (I want dual exhaust while it is apart but my options with a 170 is limited. I have access to a 225. If I rebuild the 225 head can I use the more readily available headers for the 225. or just leave it all stock.

So the question is will the 225 manifolds (and header) fit on the 170 block with the 225 head? Thanks, good to be on the forum!

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hot rodder at heart!

225 and 170 heads are all the same, so no problem with that. But the 170 block is 1" shorter than the 225 block, which makes it more difficult to fit the various headers to the 170. I know the Clifford shorty headers can be made to fit the 170 motor - at least I was able to on my '66 Barracuda. Not sure how your '62 might differ. Others here can chime in on that.

To get the Clifford shorty headers to fit my 170 motor the first step was to cut a big notch out of the boss (or gusset) at the back side of the water pump structure. That makes room for the #1 header tube on its drop from the head. That got the tubes mounted to the motor, but then the forward collector tube will land in the middle of the steering box. We fixed that by taking a small, straight across pie slice out of the 1-2-3 tubes, folding them up, and then welding them back up. Doesn't require a very big pie slice to move the collector up the necessary distance.

Can be done....

Give us some pics of the interior and engine bay if you have time...

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Sweet find! My own '62 is here.


If you build an engine for it, and it's a '68-up engine, you'll need an adaptor ring to fit it properly (without pump/seal damage) to the '67-down automatic.

Cylinder head: 170/225 are same, year by year. Send me a PM on this one.

All manifolds that fit a 225 also fit a 170. The hassle is in fitting headers to the car itself. Get Dutra Duals instead unless you're building a full-race car. They fit, they work, they don't leak, etc.

Floor pans: New ones here.

2bbl setup: Fer sher, fer sher! Lots of options, depending on how well you want it to run, how easy a time you want to have converting it, and how much money you have in the budget. See here and for more info on that parallel-2bl setup that works well on these early cars, look at this very clean conversion on a '61 (with Dutra Duals, as it happens).

Also see HEI ignition upgrade, hi-perf engine buildup here, high-perf parts and build info here.

Other upgrades: See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

As soon as I get it I will get pics of the interior.
thank you all for the info this will be a great new project, my old project is in the other albums.
thanks again

Just looked at the shorty set and it lists the 170 along with the rest of the slant sixes from 60 to 87 but I imagine one has to deal with fitment as mentioned.
Thanks

How do I tell between high starter or low starter?

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hot rodder at heart!

Also, be very careful before you decide to spend any money with Clifford. They have a long and ugly reputation for being a bunch of clowns; see for example here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is inaccurately described, and a lot of it is not even slightly cost-effective.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

well I do like the looks of the Dutra duals

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hot rodder at heart!

I can tell you this, you will be happier with Dutra duals. I have dual Dutras on mine, which require slight block grinding to fit but nothing that'll take more than 5 minutes. Conversely, when I had headers it took 2 of us several hours to get them to fit, seal up, and retorque. Then they rusted in about 2 years. The Dutra manifolds I have are running strong 5 years later.

Oh, and Clifford is useless as a company.