Ok, so I'm contemplating on removing the head and sending it in to get cleaned and decked to bump up the compression.The truck I'm putting the slant in will not be a daily but will be driven often (a few times a week) and want a fun little hot rod without doing a V8 swap. I'm also getting an A-833 OD transmission to replace the 3-on-the-tree. I have a few questions.
1. How much should I tell them to shave off the head?
2. I bought a set of Wolverine 340 valve springs. What is the most aggressive cam I can use for my slant? I would like a little bit of a lopey idle, but I don't want to get too aggressive of a cam to where it makes the truck a pain to drive. Are there anything else I should look at purchasing for the head or can I get away with the original parts?
3. I'm looking at getting a Clifford intake manifold and a 4bbl carb to match my Clifford truck headers. Which carb would best fit for the rest of the supporting mods?

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-Brodie

1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree
2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

1)You will have to pull the engine apart and take measurements, if you go too light and you put a big cam in it, the build will fall flat on its face, if you are too high on compression and too little cam it can ping. There are guys here that can run the calcs for you if you know the bore, the deck height (difference between the top of the piston at TDC, and the deck of the block), and your chamber volume. If your engine is a mech lifter cam, and you want lump, just tighten the lash up .002...it'll lope...lol...shooting for a 9:1 SCR, a mid-7 DCR would be good if you are using headers and a 4 barrel...transmission type also should be considered in the choice the 4 speed can be a little kinder than an automatic in some scenarios...

2) You can put anything in your slant, but the build has to support it, and sadly the more cam you use the higher the compression and rpm needed to support it....If you are daily driving with wanting to use pump gas, then you are going for a cam like aggressive ted uses in the 250 advertised duration range...more compression will help support this cam. A smaller cam doesn't need the heavier springs, but they are good insurance and will help if you decide to go with a bigger build later. The RV15 is a good cam to work with as well.

3) The Edelbrock 500 cfm is a good start, or if you are a "tuner" the holley 390 cfm 0-8007....anything bigger and your gas mileage will tumble to the point a small block would tumble.

I got a edelbrock 500 cfm thunder series carb on my motor. Its easy to adjust and makes great power for towing. But if you dont think you are going to be doing much towing I would stick with a 2bbl. You will get better mileage and have enough power.

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~Nic

If you do go with a 4bbl - get the smallest one you can find. Carter makes a 400CFM AFB - that's what I have on my 1982 W150 with a slant 6. If you get a Holley make sure you get the interchangeable quick swap spring thing for the vacuum secondaries. You will need to play with power valves too - the Holley has to come apart for that. A stock 4BBL installed on a truck will have the power valve on most of the time at highway speed as there will be so little vacuum - you're pushing a heavy brick through the air. I swapped out the metering springs on my carter and it helped with MPG - easy to do on a Carter without taking the carb apart.

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Tom
'86 Alfa Romeo Spider, red "Dinsdale"
'10 Corvette, red "" (no name yet)
'95 Ferrari 348, red "Zoom"
'04 Maserati, black "Evil"
'05 Aston Martin DB9, green "Bond, Treasury bond."
'82 Dodge W150 Power Ram, yellow "E. Valdez"

I think that should read Carter *made* a 400 cfm carb...carter went defunct decades ago, Edelbrock now manufactures the standard carter models like AFB and AVS, but only in 500, 600+up cfm for the common models. Outside of a swap meet, I don't think the old Carter 3083 would be an over the counter item just anyone would have laying around to sell. Is there another stock number at summit racing you got one under? The 500 would be fine for most builds.
A "stock" 4 barrel would be a V-8 item and would be calibrated for that engine from the factory to pass emissions and provide acceptable mileage on the engine it was supposed to be installed...In fact in many cases with the Holley the power valve is set mostly for a small block and the PV is way up in the 6.5"Hg range, whereas the slant if built correctly for street use might want it a bit sooner like at 8" to keep from over doing the acc. pump shot...that being said, too...some stock Holleys on RV's and large trucks run a dual point power valve that has partial enrichment at one point (like 8-12"hg), and full enrichment at a normal spot (like 4-6"hg)....I have successfully run these in my "mileage carb" 390 holley to wring the last bit of MPG on varied driving conditions in my heavier duster...this can easily be adapted to suit any truck/van with a slant. The reason it would be on most of the time is the carb is not correct for the build and the throttle plates are open too far all the time and overcoming the carbs calibration....Even some small adders can put things back in the "box" like degreeing the cam and installing it slightly advanced, cleaning up the ports in the head...larger adders like better exhaust, a kinder rear ratio to help move the brick and help keep the build and it's components working together to motivate even the largest hunk of steel.

Want easy, go edelbrock...like playing with the tuning and trying to get the most out of it, go holley...want more adjustability and a lot of more challenge, go weber...

I forgot to mention if you buy a edelbrock 4bbl get the Lokar throttle cable and mounting bracket. No way you will get the stock cable to mount up right even with a custom bracket made. Its just to long. The Lokar one can be cut down to fit.

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~Nic

There are plenty of folks running the stock cable. I just put a half loop in it to get it to fit. We have 3 trucks that are running like that right now. My latest uses the super six bracket and stock cable.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I dont know about your cables but mine was to long. I couldn't run it straight to the carb without it binding up. I even tried to loop it around once but this caused it to bind up as well.

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~Nic