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K-H Disk wheel barring part number https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57650 |
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Author: | wjajr [ Thu May 07, 2015 11:00 am ] |
Post subject: | K-H Disk wheel barring part number |
I can't find a part number for inner and outer wheel barrings for 67 Dart equipped with K-H 11 inch disk. Are they the same as used with 10" drum spindle? |
Author: | mvh [ Wed May 27, 2015 8:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: K-H Disk wheel barring part number |
Quote: I can't find a part number for inner and outer wheel barrings for 67 Dart equipped with K-H 11 inch disk.
That is what I have been told, yes.
Are they the same as used with 10" drum spindle? |
Author: | wjajr [ Mon Jun 01, 2015 5:33 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks for the info. I just installed new #set2 and #set6 last about ten days ago. I had recorded that info in my binder after asking that same question back in 2008 while rebuilding frontend, but couldn't locate just where said scribble resided. After install both new outer & inner bearings I struggled with setting preload. Manuel lists for Dart 9" drum torque to 70 lb in, install locker and back off one notch resulting zero to 0.003" preload. There was no listing for 10" brakes in Dart. However under Charger etc (B Body) there was a setting for 10 inch brakes with no mention of disk brake) to be preloaded to 90 lb inch and backed off one notch. Between section 2 Front Suspension and section 22 Wheel Bearings & Tire there is discrepancy or confusion between values used to set front bearings. So I decided to follow 10" method where those bearings are same for disk & drum being larger than 9 inch brakes found on most Darts. After following 90 lb in backing & off one notch method the front end feels tighter, and previously slight lose feel under certain conditions is now gone. I have now scribbled notes in FSM pointing out the above findings for easy future access, continuing brain atrophy & out gassing (old fart brain fart). While I was at it, inspection of opposite wheel yielded galled outer bearing race so that bearing got replaced as well. Now I need to solve the upper ball joint dust boot sealing, or lack of sealing to CAP brand tubular control arm. These ball joints continually require greasing (every 1000 mile or less) to keep noise free, and cleaning the resulting greasy mess made around upper ball joint, spindle etc. Dan warned me years ago that CAP brand (a company now swallowed up by another outfit) often fail, he even sent example pictures. I now think the high failure problem is a result of the design's inability to seal joint from contamination and or grease loss to the point ball becomes so dry it fetches up causing one or both welded arms to bend & shear. In engineering terms a massive moment develops at weld between tubular arm and collar housing ball joint, and arm twists free of collar. |
Author: | wjajr [ Mon Jun 01, 2015 5:33 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Quote: Thanks for the info.
I just installed new #set2 and #set6 about ten days ago. I had recorded that info in my binder after asking that same question back in 2008 while rebuilding frontend, but couldn't locate just where said scribble resided. After installing both new outer & inner bearings I struggled with setting preload. Manuel lists for Dart 9" drum torque to 70 lb in, install locker and back off one notch resulting zero to 0.003" preload. There was no listing for 10" brakes in Dart. However under Charger etc (B Body) there was a setting for 10 inch brakes with no mention of disk brake) to be preloaded to 90 lb inch and backed off one notch. Between section 2 Front Suspension and section 22 Wheel Bearings & Tire there is discrepancy or confusion between values used to set front bearings. So I decided to follow 10" method where those bearings are same for disk & drum being larger than 9 inch brakes found on most Darts. After following 90 lb in backing & off one notch method the front end feels tighter, and previously slight lose feel under certain conditions is now gone. I have now scribbled notes in FSM pointing out the above findings for easy future access, counteracting continuing brain atrophy & out gassing (old fart brain fart). While I was at it, inspection of opposite wheel yielded galled outer bearing race so that bearing got replaced as well. Now I need to solve the upper ball joint dust boot sealing, or lack of sealing to CAP brand tubular control arm. These ball joints continually require greasing (every 1000 mile or less) to keep noise free, and cleaning the resulting greasy mess made around upper ball joint, spindle etc. Dan warned me years ago that CAP brand (a company now swallowed up by another outfit) often fail, he even sent example pictures. I now think the high failure problem is a result of the design's inability to seal joint from contamination and or grease loss to the point ball becomes so dry it fetches up causing one or both welded arms to bend & shear. In engineering terms a massive moment develops at weld between tubular arm and collar housing ball joint, and arm twists free of collar. |
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