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| Adjusting T-bars https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57657 |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Fri May 08, 2015 7:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Adjusting T-bars |
Where, exactly, do I take measurement A and measurement B when adjusting the Torsion bars? The factory manual for '67 shows "bottom of steering knuckle" for B and "lowest point of adjusting blade" for A. Where is the lowest point of adjusting blade? thanks, Brian |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Fri May 08, 2015 9:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thought there was a figure that pointed out the areas... maybe different year to year. If memory serves me though - the low point is directly below the ball of the lower ball joint (the flat where the zerk screws into). The high point is... on the side of the lca where the torsion bar goes in, the lowest point there. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Fri May 08, 2015 10:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks Pierre... |
I picture of the point/spot on the LCA that you're talking about would be great. The picture from the '67 manual isn't clear on "A", but it does clearly show where the zerk goes for "B". brian |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sat May 09, 2015 6:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I take the long measurement from bottom of torsion bar at where the blade or tang is that adjustment bolt pushes on located in center of lower control arm. Make life easy, and clean & lube adjustment bolt threads before making any adjustments. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat May 09, 2015 9:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | clarification |
Wjajr, I'm not sure that I understand where you're describing. The blade that the adjuster goes into is not at the bottom of the T-bar. The T-bar is inserted into the socket on the LCA, the socket is connected to/integral with the blade. It sounds like you're saying that you take measurement A at the bottom of the outside perimeter of the curved part of the blade directly below the T-bar. Did I get that right? Brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat May 09, 2015 9:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | thicker T-bars |
I have to say, these thicker T-bars make adjustments more quickly, the thin guys would take lots of turns before I got significant change in height and when I rocked up a down they'd change again more than these thicker ones do. Still these thicker ones seem like they're not too stiff. My adjusters are fully lubed, so they turn with no problem. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sat May 09, 2015 11:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think your over complicating this. Set the ride height where it looks good then measure from torsion bar socket on the arm to ground to make sure its even side to side. Make sure you can stick a couple fingers between the lca bump stop and frame. Done. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sat May 09, 2015 2:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | sounds good |
Thanks Pierre. |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Sat May 09, 2015 5:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What Pierre said.... As long as your not hitting the bumpstops and you have an appropriate alignment..... My DeSoto is at 1 1/2 fingers.....and it just hits on big frost heaves. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun May 10, 2015 5:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: A at the bottom of the outside perimeter of the curved part of the blade directly below the T-bar. Did I get that right?
YUP.
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun May 10, 2015 5:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: My DeSoto is at 1 1/2 fingers.....and it just hits on big frost heaves.
Just a guess, but he probably won't hit more than a few frost heaves a year in SF area. :~)
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| Author: | Kidd [ Sun May 10, 2015 8:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
when I did my 67 Barracuda, I measured to the wheel well on the car. LOL, I will have to look at it now......had the alignment done after I set it. |
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