Slant Six Forum
https://slantsix.org/forum/

Holley 1920 Flooding Issues
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57662		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Dodge72 [ Sat May 09, 2015 3:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Holley 1920 Flooding Issues
First post on Slantsix and it's not even my slant! I am having flooding issues with my 1920 Holley one bbl (ID number: 6364) after finally putting the 225 engine back in my 1972 Dart (see FABO for that long-winded story).

After hooking up the fuel lines after a few weeks of standing still, it took some long-time cranking before my engine roared back to life. But not even 15 seconds of sounding wonderful was it sputtering, flooding, and dying. Carb issue. Tried to clean the needle and seat on it and hooking it back up, did nothing. Found some fuel leakage coming out from the bottom of the float bowl. So I took off the float bowl cover off to check the float (that's fine, it's not stuck or soaked in fuel) and found this tiny little BB-sized metal sphere in the bottom of it. Huh, that's not normal. After some other inspection as well as taking the float off, I found a little metal/brass cap just sitting there on the bottom of the carb, looking bent out of shape. On the metering body, you can see to the right there is this one area on the diagonal slope that looked to be torn apart by something, and I suspect that is where my problems lie (and where that ball and cap came from). I have never even opened a carburetor before, so I'm reading and looking into diagrams as much as I can.

This is the screw on the float bowl that had the most fuel leakage:

[img][img]http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u383/Katie_Pype/11009163_1277295042332932_6191811128377059824_n_zpslukqodgv.jpg[/img]

Float bowl cover with the little round ball I found rolling around in it. Note on the bottom near the gasket is this gooey, almost looking like gummy fuel on the bottom where it was leaking:

[img][img]http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u383/Katie_Pype/11120544_1277295062332930_4892352520272728971_n_zpsi8szfm81.jpg[/img]


Inside of the carb with float. No varnish inside, looks decently clean and float moves freely:

[img][img]http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u383/Katie_Pype/10985223_1277295088999594_2271567964891633814_n_zps5i8gwaec.jpg[/img]


Inside with float removed. Note on the right with the damaged area? Just below it did I find that brass/metallic cap:

[img][img]http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u383/Katie_Pype/11205001_1277295132332923_2705038164801887320_n_zpshhjks3hx.jpg[/img]

Another picture:

[img][img]http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u383/Katie_Pype/11255762_1277295148999588_1769645708524770233_n_zpsepwbcbix.jpg[/img]


And finally, the little metallic cap that is bent out of shape that I found. The spring I know is for the float, I'm keeping it all in the bowl to keep it together.

[img][img]http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u383/Katie_Pype/10176147_1277295198999583_49074208771469330_n_zpsnvlfdpit.jpg[/img]


I can provide more info if it's needed. Thanks so much for any info!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat May 09, 2015 4:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welcome here. Your carb's falling apart. Odds aren't very good of putting it back together so that it works correctly, but you can try. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. You will probably wind up needing (and wanting) to buy a new carburetor. Forget "remanufactured" garbage from the parts store, that way lies only aggravation and wasted money.

What's your long-term plan? Stay with the 1-barrel? Go to a 2-barrel?
Author:  Dodge72 [ Sat May 09, 2015 6:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
Uh-oh, I wasn't hoping to hear that. My long-term goals was to initially get the one-barrel with the engine tuned up and running well and drive it for a while (only got to drive it a handful of times), then switch to a two barrel, bigger (or dual) exhaust, and improve the car from there. Funny you mention re-manufactured carbs, as this one came with a tag saying it was re-manufactured however long ago. Thanks for the link, I'll look it over to see if I can find anything.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat May 09, 2015 6:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
If your eventual plan is to go to a 2bbl, don't lose money, effort, and time futzing with the 1bbl unless you're dead broke and must have the car up and running with a 1bbl for now.

Damage (leaky bowl) and disintegration (check balls and caps falling out) are just two of the many entertaining ways "remanufactured" carburetors suck.

Either which way, now or later, send me a PM when you're ready to go 2bbl; I have a variety of some of the parts you'll need (intake manifolds, carbs, etc).
Author:  nm9stheham [ Sun May 10, 2015 6:53 am ]
Post subject: 
The OP is a high school student in auto class and so might be able to use some help with finding a replacement metering body to get him by for now. He has just completed some moderately heavy engine work and needs to get the engine running for cam break-in, so I suspect he would be happy to get it going for now (and would learn about carb rebuilding). I'd throw some repair parts at him but just don't have a collection of the right type of parts.

If it does make sense for a self-re-build IF a new metering body can be found, then I got a decent repair kit from Mike's Carbs in the PNW. They also have replacement floats for most of these 1920's. There may be others; I know Otter Zone sells Sorensen carb kits.
Author:  Dodge72 [ Sun May 10, 2015 9:57 am ]
Post subject: 
While yes, it makes sense to go to a two-barrel right now, but as nm9stheham as mentioned before I did, I really just need my cam broken in and if it makes it that far, drive it home the 2 miles (the Dart's still in the shop). When I'm finally in my own driveway, I can think about making some more permanent changes, like switching out the 1 barrel for either the Super Six setup or just getting a more reliable 1 bb. Unless of course, I find a rebuildable 1 bbl for the cheap.

As for the metering body, I assume that a trip to the junkyard tomorrow is in order to start looking for good condition metering blocks and/or reusable carburetors. I'll keep everyone updated.


And don't forget to call your mothers!
Author:  Dodge72 [ Thu May 21, 2015 2:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ended up getting a new carburetor, rebuilt but never used. Hooked it on, got all reconnected, went to start it and....SAME PROBLEM! Rough running, barely can keep it running (maybe it's a hair better now), misfiring or flooding. Shaking the entire car with how rough it runs. No backfire, and seems to want to start right up. I don't get it. Am I off a tooth in timing? I am trying to fire it off at TDC, and it really shouldn't run this horribly....
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu May 21, 2015 2:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Ended up getting a new carburetor, rebuilt but never used.
A rebuilt carburetor is not a new carburetor. "Rebuilt" can mean many things, and most often these days it means "remanufactured", which is the same thing as "turned into useless garbage", unfortunately. However, the same exact problem across two carbs suggests the problem is elsewhere. Yes, you need to check for improper timing, starting with checking whether the timing mark actually correctly indicates TDC on the frontmost cylinder (once you've confirmed this, try a timing setting of 5° BTDC).

You need to check your valve adjustment. Check and double-check that the spark plug wires are in the correct clockwise sequence (1-5-3-6-2-4) on the distributor cap. Check for big vacuum leaks. Check to make sure the PCV valve is hooked to the carb's PCV nipple near the carb base, and not to the same-size bowl vent nipple near the top right front corner of the carb.

And you mention this is a '72. Any chance it's a '72 originally sold in the state of California? That matters a lot in a case like this!
Author:  Dodge72 [ Thu May 21, 2015 3:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't know if this helps, but I pulled a spark plug to see if there was anything bad, and it was just black, like converted in a black soot. Nothing crusty or coating, just a light dust.
Author:  Dodge72 [ Thu May 21, 2015 4:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Valve adjustment...I know it is .020 for exhaust, .010 for intake. They are set as such, but cold. What should the tolerances be if the engine is stone cold, just to adjust then as such, get it going then readjust after when hot? PCV is in the correct port on carburetor. Carb is from 1970, so no fuel vent. tube for evap canister.

I will recheck plugs. Teacher mentioned to me when after class was done, he had unplugged the vacuum advance to the carburetor when I tried to start it. I don't know why, but now I have to wait until tomorrow to try again.

I am trying to backtrack now, trying diagnose the issue. This wild, erratic engine firing started after a day of fixing the transmission pan gasket. I was starting it off and on again, and it was dying frequently when I changed gears. But started right up, always. Then, after a night of simply sitting outside (in Washington, about 40 degrees) , teacher went to stay it to move it, and it wouldn't start. Already changed timing gears and chain, where it was very loose and off timing. But now that's fixed. Always starts up great if I were to disconnect the fuel line to the carb, leave it for a few hours, and reconnect. Starts up great, but then instantly dies I'd I let off the gas. Then goes on to its problem. Maybe the carb ifs just too rich? Haven't changed any air or fuel mixture screws. Check the plugs, again, for it off, then if out doesn't fix it, check mixture screws? Just sorting out my thoughts.
Author:  cpslntdchrg [ Thu May 21, 2015 8:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nope, lash them hot, and 0.012 intake and 0.022 exhaust (reccomended for truck, and better for all older slants. Check Dan's procedure, check in Youtube for examples (if the video and Dans procedure differ, use Dan's).The idle will improve a lot!. If you lash them cold, the lash gets tighter as the engine warms up and the rods expand.

Important, try to run at the lowest RPM possible, that helps
Author:  cpslntdchrg [ Fri May 22, 2015 8:48 am ]
Post subject: 
If you can't warm up the engine, try 0.014 and 0.024 (if somebody has better numbers, let him know). But check again hot and running, pushrods-cam moving distance can be slightly different in each valve, lash can change differently in each valve when warming up.
Author:  Dodge72 [ Fri May 22, 2015 10:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, warming up the engine isn't a possibility as of right now, since I'm having serious trouble trying to get it even running longer than 5 seconds without crossfire and/or a fuel issue. It may be more than just the carburetor on this one, because every time I disconnect the fuel line from the carb then reconnect it, the slant turns on with just the bump of the key and runs like a dream.....for 10 seconds before it begins to shake, misfire or crossfire, sputter and die. No fuel spewing out, and not even a backfiring occurrence. Idles extremely rough until it dies after a minute, and dies immediately when giving it some gas.

EDIT: Whoops, I missed your question SlantSixDan.....no, I don't believe it was a California car. Made in Canada, and as far as I know the original owner had lived here and bought it here (in the state, anyways).
Page 1 of 1 All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/