I got a 74 dart with a 225. I just got a new re-manufactured carburetor and a new air cleaner.

Carb: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/urm-6 ... model/dart
Air Filter: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1491/overview/

I have the hose from the PCV hooked up and the vacuum advanced hose from the distributor hooked up. I have the fuel line hooked up and all other vacuum nipples are plugged. I still have yet to figure out the damn choke though. I no longer have the divorced choke, it was all rusty and falling apart when I tore all this crap out a few months ago.

So my question, of many, is there a way I can set up a manual choke to this carburetor? What kind of model of carb is this thing styled after? Holley 1920? 1945? ect. Also is it ok to run with only the vac-advanced and pcv hose hooked up and all other vac-ports on the carb be plugged off?

Also I got it to run without a choke after caressing it a bit lol was even able to pop it in reverse and back it up so I could clean up the 5 months of garbage that kinda magically appeared around where my car was sitting lol However bout the time I got it backed up into my dads parking spot it dies, ran out of gas. And so I had to make a trip down to the gas station to fill up a 5 gal gas tank to put in the old dart. However since I ran out of gas and despite having put more in the tank, she just wont start again. She tries but it'll start and die again immediately almost like she's being starved of fuel or something. Not sure why.

If it came with an automatic choke, I wouldn't monkey with it trying to reinvent the wheel by installing a manual choke. I'd try to get the one already on it working. Is it an electric choke or a spring and rod choke?

Or you can install a third party electric choke kit. Easy install.

If the carb you have looks like the one in the link's picture, it looks like it is a Holley 1945. The divorced choke closes when you accelerate, so you can't run it manually. Buy the diaphragm, it should be connected to one of the vacuum ports (in fact all this should have been already in the carburetor you bought). The choke is also closed by a thermostatic sensor when starting the engine, until warm-up (the thermal sensor installed in the header, with a long rod connected to the choke. Maybe this is the one you tore down when dissasembling). You can buy another thermostatic sensor (mechanical or electric, best solution), or run a wire and pull it while it warms up (worse solution). Still the car should be able to start cold and warm up by itself (or at least pumping some gas)

You can run your carb only connecting the PCV, the advance, and the divorced choke in 1969 and older models (my experience...). As your car is 1973, you need to connect the EGR valve, or remove it and seal the hole with a blind. (I recommend you initially to connect the EGR, removing it can be a federal crime, more or less enforced depending of where you are). It would be nice that you run the carb bowl vent and the tube from the charcoal canister to reduce HC emissions and save a little gas, but it is not needed for the car to operate (and you might want to check the charcoal canister status).

You mention that the car does not start now, even with gas in the tank.

a) Try taking the air filter off and pour a little gas into the carb, and start. That might help the engine to run until the gas pump fills back the carb bowl.

b) Open more the carb idle screw, to allow more gas to go into the engine.

c) Running out of gas might have displaced dirt/water from the bottom of the gas tank, plugging things along the way. You might/will need to check/replace the gas filter, and then (if that does not work) clean the carb (opening and checking what is in the bowl might help), clean/replace gas lines and gas tank. you might want to take out the gas line into the gas pump, and suck gas from an external container, to check if the plugging happened before or after the gas pump.

Manuals for the 1945 carb are in this website, check this link:

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=33102

The manual also describes were all the vacuum connections of the carb go to...

Ahh, one more thing: reman carbs are a crapshot. From good (lucky) to so so (you can run the engine but with high idle, or the behavior is not smooth) to terrible (run in idle but do not accelerate, or you just cant move the car). If you did not give you carb core back as payment, you should try to rebuild it yourself... So you have two shots to fix the car instead of one... Walker rebuild kits can be found in OReilly's and other auto stores

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
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hey thanks for all the responses. Yeah it was originally a mechanical divorced choke. I'll be getting a new fuel filter and also I'll see if i find a new choke coil and rod to replace the rusted out old ones at the auto parts store.

I'll try pouring gas into the carb and I'll get back to you all on if any of this stuff works.

Ok well I got a new fuel filter and it didn't change anything. Tried dumping some gas into the carb through the top it also didn't make a difference.

The carb came with the choke diaphram, however the choke rod and spring for the mechanical divorced choke/choke thermostat I had to order off of ebay today because the old one was all rusted out and crap. it should be here on tuesday.

I checked the fuel lines and they are good. I tried starting the car with the fuel line to the carb disconnected to so I could see if fuel was coming through the line and it does perfectly fine.

The charcoal canister does not exist in my car. It was missing when I bought it so I could hook up the EGR valve but I wouldn't have anything to hook it up to. At the moment I have the EGR Nipple on the carb plugged with a vacuum plug. Most of the emissions B.S. in my car is gone.

I did however check all electrical connections because it was starting up but kept dying right away so I figured hmm, maybe the ignition wiring somewhere down the line is off. Found out the ballast resistor was no good after doing a continuity test and ohm test with a multimeter. So I got another one today. Installed that and it started sizzling and burning and some water started draining out of the back of it. It helped a bit cause now the car doesn't die right away, it runs for about 5 seconds at about half throttle before it dies lol it still dies right away with no throttle.

I'm at a loss here as to what to do. Any other suggestions would be great. I know its not the fuel lines, not the ignition wiring or anything to do with that, Other than the lack of choke spring and rod its all assembled and installed. I'm just plum out of ideas.

"Remanufactured" carburetors tend to be junk that can't be made to run right.
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

The charcoal canister has nothing to do with the EGR valve, but the random hack-and-slash job someone did to the vacuum hoses and components under the hood means you've probably got some sorting out and restoring/refurbishing to do.

Save yourself aggravation and get a #1234 Electric choke kit.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks dan, i'll look into it. I got the choke coming on tuesday and it should be a pretty easy install so if that doesn't work I might either try to get a rebuild kit for it or wash my hands of it and go out and buy a holley 2300 and an adapter plate and toss in a choke cable and pray to the mopar car gods that that'll fix the issue and get me rolling down the road again.

Adaptor plate to put a 2bbl in place of a 1bbl is a recipe for a car that won't run worth a tinker's dam.

If you want to put in a big 2bbl with a working automatic choke, I have these primo parts for sale; send me a PM if you're interested.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok, no fuel starving (besides the carb, that might be the cause...). Then, some questions:

a) You said the car ran so-so until it ran out of fuel (you were able to but it in reverse and move the car...). How bad did it run before? Was really out of fuel or something else happened? (besides the ballast resistor)

b) it runs for 5 sec, so you should have spark, and things inside are not terribly wrong, good. Does it die even if you pump the accelerator (the carb gas pump should send gas? An idea: after one of the 5 sec runs (to get sure the carb gas bowl is full), with the air filter removed pump the accelerator lever in the carb looking inside at the throat, you should see/hear gasoline spraying inside.

c) Did you try to open the idle screw?

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

By the way, save the clip that held the rod to the choke lever in the carb, in my experience the thermostat choke kits do not have it. I needed to drill a slot near the rod tip with a dremel and install a carb kit small retainer to hold it in place.

_________________
/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

well it took a bit of effort to get it to stay running and idle long enough that the engine warms up so I could throw it into reverse but it wasn't giving me the problems it is now. As far as I know there isn't anything else that could have gone wrong. It could have been that the ballast resister was the culprit of it dying instead of running out of gas now that I think of it regardless though, the tank has gas in it now and the ballast resistor has been replaced for a new one so under those circumstances with everything else being the same as before when I was able to get it to run it should run which is why I'm so confused.

Yup it dies when I pump the accelerator when trying to start it, it actually dies quicker when I do that. Yeah I tried opening the idle screw, didn't make much of a difference honestly. not sure how far I want to open it without throwing things way out of wack.

Yeah I looked down into the carb and it does have a nice clean stream of gas shooting out the jet when I tug on the throttle cable.

Any other suggestions or tricks to try?

First thing, an apology for a mistake: the divirced choke diaphragm opens the choke when accelerating (and under high vacuum conditions), it does not close it.

Now, you have fuel in the carb then, and the accelerator pump works. Some alternatives:

Fuel system: are you closing the choke by hand/ temporary wire when starting the engine? Ir you accelerate with the choke closed, it might die. You can diagnose/open the carb you have to check the basics (gas level in bowl is fine, if not you can open it to check if float is damaged, and to check if there is no evident damage or problems inside). I do not have a 1945, dont know how difficult is to dissasemble or assemble. The other thing you can do is requesting Summit to exchange it, buy IDK how that can work after you installed it in the car. Then you can install a new carb, as Dan suggested. Ihad the best luck buying a OEM carb, in eBAY sometimes you find original equipment that was in storage and had never been used, I bought one and worked like a charm.

Checking/improving spark: take the spark plugs off, replace if carbonized, rusted. slantsixdan reccomends NGK zfr5n, I use UR4 because they are hotter, and my slant is worn and burns oil.
Check the timing: as the engine does not turn, you need to do it in a static way. Or mark your actual distributor location and move it slightly back and fort to see how does it responds. Slightly is the key, timing changes a lot with distrib rotation. Check timing chain too, taking out the valve cover and the plugs, rotating it by hand and checking valves opening and distributor rotor position at cilinder 1 TDC. Also inspect cables, connections. Not sure if you can diagnose problems with the coil or ignnition. Your car's service manual can be a great help, you can find copies in the internet, or buy it (i bought one for mine, was a great decision)

Sorry for this long message, I hope somebody else can help you, and that you can find the solution soon and in the least expensive way

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Ups, forgot to add: check the carb to manifold gasket and that you have no vacuum leaks... The 1920 rebuild kits come with two gasket sets, and you can get problems if you install the wrong gasket (or the right gasket in the wrong direction). Somethinh like that might happen in the 1945

_________________
/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Ok well i finally figured out what the problem is. Not getting enough voltage to the ignition coil. When I hit the start button it starts right up but as soon as I let off it dies, i checked the ballast resistor and it goes from 12 volts on one end to 1.5 volts on the other end (the end that goes to the coil positive terminal and is also spliced into the ignition switch start wire). So now that I know what the problem is, I get the fun job of figuring out how to fix it LOL thanks again for all your help though, I'm actually relieved it wasn't the carbs fault.

However, I still haven't figured out how to get the choke properly installed. Got the coil bolted to the manifold but the rod tangles up with one of the other rods on the fast idle cam and the coil spring on the choke assembly is really loose. It doesn't have enough tension in it to force the choke butterfly closed. Thoughts on this?