I've finally got my rebuilt six back in my car but it ran poorly and had a low idle. I checked nearly everything from timing to fuel delivery to vacuum leaks but still couldn't figure it out. Then, it quit running altogether. After a couple of hours I realized that while turning the starter, the engine sounded like it was running and revving but would immediately die when I released the starter. I tried an experiment. I disconnected the smaller wire running to the starter motor and had someone hold the wire in place while engaging the starter. I told them to move the wire away when they heard the engine rev and they did so. The starter disengaged and the engine ran and idled beautifully...as long as the ignition switch was held in the start position. Let it return to run and the engine dies.
I checked the power running to the ignition switch. In the run/accessories position, power runs to the "acc" and "ign 1" terminals. With the switch in the start position, power runs to the tabs mentioned plus the "st" (starter I assume) tab and the "ign 2" terminal. I'm assuming (yeah, yeah ass out of you and me) that power should also run through the "ign 2" terminal when the switch is in run/accessories position because when I jumped the two "ign" terminals, the engine runs and idles beautifully.
So, does my theory seem right and I need a new ignition switch? And why in the heck are there two ignition terminals?

One is for start other is for run, you might need a new switch.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I plan on getting a new one. Is there any chance of damaging something by running a jump wire from one ignition terminal to the other one?

I think you will be putting 12 volts to the coil all the time, coil might not like that.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Did you check your ballast resistor & its connections? Your description is classic failed resistor. Power normally goes from IGN1 to the resistor- which drops it lower to limit current thru the coil & points.

When you operate the starter, voltage is much lower than when running- often too low to make strong enough spark to start the engine. IGN2 supplies power to the coil directly- bypassing the resistor as long as the ignition switch is in start position. If the resistor is bad or poorly connected then the coil loses power when you release the key to Run.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Here were my ignorance becomes more apparent. The coil that was in my car was a chrome aftermarket unit. It had a small cylinder looking device that also attached to the positive on the coil. It's that the ballast resistor? I switched out the coil with one from a mid-80's slant that did not have that cylinder device with it. It's just temporary until I figure this issue out.

The little cylinder is a condenser (capacitor) to keep down electrical interference on your radio while the vehicle is running. The ballast resistor will be a white porcelain rectangle crewed to the fire wall or fender of the car. Early versions will have one wire in and one wire out, the late versions or dual ballast resistor will have 4 prongs.

http://www.carid.com/accel/item-2100354 ... Qgodpg8ArQ

-D.Idiot

This page lists several simplified ignition systems illustrating what the different devices used look like, and how they are wired together.

As DI suggested, your no run after starter is disengaged is a classic condition caused by failed ballast resister. If you have a Volt Ohm meter, one can test ballast resister for continuity, or in other words, is its resistance coil still whole and able to pass electricity, or broken. It works on the same idea as a light bulb where if the little coil brakes the light goes out.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I know the part y'all are talking about. I'll check it out. As always, thanks for the help!

I'm having this exact problem only thing is I've used a multimeter to check for continuity and the resistor which I just bought passes so the resistor is not the culprit. However I'm not entirely sure if I have the car wired up properly. I have the ignition "Run" wire, wired up to the same female spade connector as the blue with yellow stripe wire out of the Mopar Electronic Ignition/Control Module. That connector is plugged into one prong on the ballast resistor. The other prong has the starter position wire from the ignition switch and a wire running to the positive terminal on the ignition coil. Is this wiring correct? i might also mention I'm using a new ignition coil as well, its an MSD Blaster Coil which is also brand new.

She fires up but dies right after I let off the starter and again the resistor is good so any thoughts?

SS357,

Check your two posts on Engine & Electrical for answers.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC