You're working on a car engine, not your kitchen sink here.
Use Loctite 542 or 592.
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| Evans waterless and stud sealing... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57709 |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun May 17, 2015 7:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Evans waterless and stud sealing... |
Anybody use Evans waterless, and if you do, what sealant do you use on your manifold studs? Mine had Rectorseal #5 on them. 8 of 13 of mine were leaking. I don't think the waterless coolant is dissolving the sealant, it seemed to be on the threads still, but I can't say for sure. I've been using waterless for a few years, I've never seen this issue before. I didn't seal my studs last time, and I don't know what sealant was used. I used new replacement studs, they seem a bit loose in the threads, though, it could be that contributed to the issue, who's to say... Can I use Teflon tape on the studs? What do other's use? I feel like soldering or brazing them in...obviously, I'm frustrated, and I want to make absolutely sure they are sealed this time. thanks so much, Brian |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun May 17, 2015 7:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Evans waterless and stud sealing... |
You're working on a car engine, not your kitchen sink here. Use Loctite 542 or 592. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun May 17, 2015 8:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've used rectorseal #5 before on other things quite successfully but not automotive. It's rated to handle nasty stuff so I imagine chemically your fine. Temperature wise.... the datasheet shows only a brushable temp up to 140 and flash temp of 150 but doesn't show operating temp. However it does list it as steam compatible so that's at least enough to cover our cooling system temps. The thing with it is dry time though, its slow cure. Put it in service too soon and oops... Since you have it apart go ahead and use the high temp teflon paste (such as the loctite 592 Dan pointed out). Be very sure male and female threads are clean and dry though, that may have been your demise with the rectorseal. Get the rectorseal out, spray some brake cleaner in there and blow it out, brush the studs... make sure all surfaces are as sanitary as you can get them regardless the sealant used. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun May 17, 2015 8:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks Dan. |
any preference between the two? |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun May 17, 2015 9:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Loctite is not teflon paste. It is cyanoacrylate anaerobic thread sealer. I'd use the 592 if I had equally easy access to both. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Sun May 17, 2015 10:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | easy access... |
This stuff is hard to find, at least quickly. Do you know what local shops might carry it, welding or plumbing supply houses? brian |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun May 17, 2015 10:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Good auto parts and hardware stores. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun May 17, 2015 11:18 pm ] |
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Dan - Perhaps it's both. 592 MSDS clearly indicates teflon, as does the label on the tube. Brian - you can find it under the Permatex label at any Oreilly etc. It comes in different size tubes, but the small one for example: Item 59214 (same number on Henkel/Loctite's site). |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon May 18, 2015 7:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks all, I'll find it... |
Yes, 592 appears to contain Teflon, but it is also an acrylate ester, much like super glue. From what I understand, 542, a liquid, is for fine thread applications and 592, a paste, is for coarse thread applications. I personally like using liquids on threads over pastes, liquids seem to get into the threads by capillary action, pastes tend to coat less evenly for me at least. brian |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon May 18, 2015 7:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Permatex |
Hey, I have a tube of that Permatex equivalent! b |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Mon May 18, 2015 10:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I use Teflon tape and a little of the brush on liquid Teflon too. I have never had a problem. My recent leaks were due to someone else putting in the studs and me not checking them! Rick |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon May 18, 2015 11:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I always use a liberal wrap of Teflon tape. I have not had a sealing issue since about 1989 when I started doing that. Easy to get studs out too. Someone must have loctited the last head studs I removed because I couldn't get them out by the "double nut" method. I had to weld nuts onto the studs and then wrench them out. Lou |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Mon May 18, 2015 2:22 pm ] |
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Put a bottle of Bar's Leak in it and drive it long enough to get it hot and dry the exhaust out. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon May 18, 2015 3:21 pm ] |
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Quote: Put a bottle of Bar's Leak in it
No, fix the problem correctly and don't gloop up your cooling system with gunk that shouldn't be in it.
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Mon May 18, 2015 3:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | no goop... |
No way, I'm with Dan on that one, I don't use any quick fixes or leak seal snake oils or saw dust in my gearbox. (I may use the wrong sealant, until I'm set straight that is...  )We have gaskets and seals for a reason, if they leak, they need replacing. Did I mention that I hate leaks? Brian |
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