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Upgrade the coil and ballast resistor? 225cu 3.7L
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Author:  suurthing [ Fri May 22, 2015 11:06 am ]
Post subject:  Upgrade the coil and ballast resistor? 225cu 3.7L
I was reading about installing a high output coil and new ballast resistor for steadier idling and performance--is it worth the expense/effort?.... id rather not touch anything- if the outcome is minimal.
any feedback is greatly appreciated

HAPPY MOTORING
Author:  Reed [ Fri May 22, 2015 11:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Before upgrading the coil and ballast resistor, I would upgrade the ignition to HEI ignition. Once you have installed HEI ignition, head to your local junkyard and purchase a Ford E core coil from any late '80s to mid '90s Ford product. Use this coil with the HEI ignition system and you will be happy.
Author:  coconuteater64 [ Fri May 22, 2015 3:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Before upgrading the coil and ballast resistor, I would upgrade the ignition to HEI ignition. Once you have installed HEI ignition, head to your local junkyard and purchase a Ford E core coil from any late '80s to mid '90s Ford product. Use this coil with the HEI ignition system and you will be happy.
That's the exact setup I've installed; a coil from a Taurus and the HEI from an '81 Trans Am. Best bang for the buck I've done to any vehicle!
Author:  nm9stheham [ Fri May 22, 2015 5:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would upgrade the coil and correct the ballast if you are after a better original type system. You can't get a whole lot further with the coil than a good stock coil, BTW. If you want better in general, go HEI as said; you move beyond the spark energy limits of a ballasted coil setup.

If you have the wrong ballast (which is easy to happen as very few parts counter guys, or even car guys, know what is correct for these older Mopar ballasted systems) and/or a tired coil, then you will indeed see a significant improvement. I put in a correct OEM ballast (the PO had just put in 'a ballast') and a livelier coil and fixed all sorts of cold warmup misfiring on my '62. I want to keep things original so HEI is not an option for me.
Author:  emsvitil [ Fri May 22, 2015 6:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Get extended tip spark plugs first.
Author:  Sean Mallory [ Fri May 22, 2015 7:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
This kit bolts in easy and is a no brainer.
http://www.classichei.com/

For $150 plus the Iridium plugs and Magnecor cables, I feel great about my purchase. All I have to do is tap the key to start. Torque and driveability are well improved.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri May 22, 2015 7:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'd recommend that you see the HEI upgrade article, 'cause you don't have to spend $150 on parts of unknown provenance and dubious "remanufactured" distributor, but it doesn't come with its own website and its own catchy "ClassicHEI" product name, so...never mind.
Author:  coconuteater64 [ Fri May 22, 2015 9:28 pm ]
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Mine starts first flick of the key, and I spent less than $60 for all of it, including the new-never-used coil.
Author:  Sean Mallory [ Sun May 24, 2015 9:35 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I'd recommend that you see the HEI upgrade article, 'cause you don't have to spend $150 on parts of unknown provenance and dubious "remanufactured" distributor, but it doesn't come with its own website and its own catchy "ClassicHEI" product name, so...never mind.
True you don't need to spend that much. But the HEI parts are new GM stuff.
Author:  coconuteater64 [ Sun May 24, 2015 6:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
That kit looks nice and all, but that's nearly triple what I paid for mine. And I also used all new parts I got off the Internet from various places. The heat sink I'm using was free from a scrap computer.

The only problem I encountered in the project was not using a relay to power the module; she fired right up but wouldn't turn off!
Author:  Sean Mallory [ Sun May 24, 2015 7:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
That kit looks nice and all, but that's nearly triple what I paid for mine. And I also used all new parts I got off the Internet from various places. The heat sink I'm using was free from a scrap computer.

The only problem I encountered in the project was not using a relay to power the module; she fired right up but wouldn't turn off!
I used ignition +.
Sometimes I don't feel like wading through threads with broken links and spending time at the boneyard and specifying parts. I feel my time is worth something. I'm completely happy with the results and that's all I ask for.

I was trying to share a positive experience, which are becoming more few and far between.
Author:  AMP762 [ Sun May 24, 2015 9:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mine starts as quickly as I can turn the key and release it.I have a 1981 ign.system,what am I missing?
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Mon May 25, 2015 4:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
not using a relay to power the module; she fired right up but wouldn't turn off!
Why was this? I have 3 without relays and never encountered this. Just wondering.
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Mon May 25, 2015 6:02 am ]
Post subject: 
I'm thinking a wiring problem. Maybe a "one wire" GM style alternator? I also have several HEI's without relays.
Author:  69a100 [ Mon May 25, 2015 9:09 am ]
Post subject: 
Why are people so afraid to do one's own homework, or fail to get sound advice of experts, let alone give full details about said vehicle? This is taken directly from the article!!!!

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include
•Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
•If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
•The transistorized VR will have a longer life.
Good Luck

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Elec ... arging.htm
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