I was reading about installing a high output coil and new ballast resistor for steadier idling and performance--is it worth the expense/effort?.... id rather not touch anything- if the outcome is minimal.
any feedback is greatly appreciated

HAPPY MOTORING

Before upgrading the coil and ballast resistor, I would upgrade the ignition to HEI ignition. Once you have installed HEI ignition, head to your local junkyard and purchase a Ford E core coil from any late '80s to mid '90s Ford product. Use this coil with the HEI ignition system and you will be happy.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That's the exact setup I've installed; a coil from a Taurus and the HEI from an '81 Trans Am. Best bang for the buck I've done to any vehicle!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I would upgrade the coil and correct the ballast if you are after a better original type system. You can't get a whole lot further with the coil than a good stock coil, BTW. If you want better in general, go HEI as said; you move beyond the spark energy limits of a ballasted coil setup.

If you have the wrong ballast (which is easy to happen as very few parts counter guys, or even car guys, know what is correct for these older Mopar ballasted systems) and/or a tired coil, then you will indeed see a significant improvement. I put in a correct OEM ballast (the PO had just put in 'a ballast') and a livelier coil and fixed all sorts of cold warmup misfiring on my '62. I want to keep things original so HEI is not an option for me.

Get extended tip spark plugs first.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

This kit bolts in easy and is a no brainer.
http://www.classichei.com/

For $150 plus the Iridium plugs and Magnecor cables, I feel great about my purchase. All I have to do is tap the key to start. Torque and driveability are well improved.

I'd recommend that you see the HEI upgrade article, 'cause you don't have to spend $150 on parts of unknown provenance and dubious "remanufactured" distributor, but it doesn't come with its own website and its own catchy "ClassicHEI" product name, so...never mind.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Mine starts first flick of the key, and I spent less than $60 for all of it, including the new-never-used coil.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

True you don't need to spend that much. But the HEI parts are new GM stuff.

That kit looks nice and all, but that's nearly triple what I paid for mine. And I also used all new parts I got off the Internet from various places. The heat sink I'm using was free from a scrap computer.

The only problem I encountered in the project was not using a relay to power the module; she fired right up but wouldn't turn off!

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I used ignition +.
Sometimes I don't feel like wading through threads with broken links and spending time at the boneyard and specifying parts. I feel my time is worth something. I'm completely happy with the results and that's all I ask for.

I was trying to share a positive experience, which are becoming more few and far between.

Mine starts as quickly as I can turn the key and release it.I have a 1981 ign.system,what am I missing?

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81 LeBaron Salon,88 5th ave,79 Aspen SE wagon,79 W150
Don't worry, nothing is going to be alright.

Why was this? I have 3 without relays and never encountered this. Just wondering.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I'm thinking a wiring problem. Maybe a "one wire" GM style alternator? I also have several HEI's without relays.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Why are people so afraid to do one's own homework, or fail to get sound advice of experts, let alone give full details about said vehicle? This is taken directly from the article!!!!

There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include
•Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
•If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
•The transistorized VR will have a longer life.
Good Luck

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Elec ... arging.htm