Quote:
Quote:
Use an ordinary normally-open fuse of ...
Ha! Dan made a funny. A normally open fuse!
| Slant Six Forum https://slantsix.org/forum/ |
|
| Relays and fuses https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57799 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | Hanibel [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 8:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Relays and fuses |
I am hooking up an electric choke and also preparing to do the HEI conversion. The only parts I don't have are the fuses and relays to do the job. Well technically I might have the parts but need to know the specs of the fuses and relays. I have a bucket of fuses, relays and other low voltage actuators from my old Haunted House days. So I need the following: Electric Choke Fuse amp rating: Relay Type: Relay Amp rating: HEI Conversion Fuse amp rating: Relay Type: Relay Amp rating: Thanks in advance |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 9:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Someone correct me if im wrong but the electric choke gos to a switched ignition source with no fuse or relay. At least that is how I have mine hooked up on my Edelbrock. |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Relays and fuses |
Quote: I am hooking up an electric choke and also preparing to do the HEI conversion.
Nicademas is correct- the factory (+) feed to the choke is spliced into one of the field wires from the alternator. No relay, no fuse. I suppose a 10 amp fuse would be fine if you wanted to add one. The only parts I don't have are the fuses and relays to do the job. Well technically I might have the parts but need to know the specs of the fuses and relays. I have a bucket of fuses, relays and other low voltage actuators from my old Haunted House days. So I need the following: Electric Choke Fuse amp rating: Relay Type: Relay Amp rating: HEI Conversion Fuse amp rating: Relay Type: Relay Amp rating: Thanks in advance Same goes for the HEI. I have never wired an HEI conversion with a relay. I usually find a switched (+) lead and tap into that for full battery flow. I believe the HEI upgrade discussion gives amp ratings for fuses and details of what relays to use. SlantSixDan sells top quality relays. |
|
| Author: | Nicademas [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Relays and fuses |
Quote: Nicademas is correct- the factory (+) feed to the choke is spliced into one of the field wires from the alternator. No relay, no fuse. I suppose a 10 amp fuse would be fine if you wanted to add one.
I have a one wire setup on my Alternator so I hooked the (+) from the choke to a switched wire on the back of the fuse block before the fuse. I guess I could also put it after the fuse but o well....
|
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 10:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Using a relay is considerably smarter than using none. Not only does it reduce the current going back and forth through the firewall, not only does it reduce the workload on the perpetually-overstressed ignition switch, but it also makes the powered devices work better. Use an ordinary normally-open fuse^h^h^h^h RELAY of a reputable brand (Bosch-Tyco, Flosser, PB). This kind of relay has terminals labelled 30, 85, 86, and 87. If you use a 20A-rated relay, you'll have much more than ample overspec for the relay to live a long and trouble-free life. Put your fuse as close as you can to the point where you pick up the power to run to the input (30) terminal of the fuse. A 15A fuse will be fine for the HEI, and another of the same for the electric choke. |
|
| Author: | Reed [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 11:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Listen to the bearded one, he knows much more about this than I do. |
|
| Author: | Pierre [ Tue Jun 02, 2015 11:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Use an ordinary normally-open fuse of ...
Ha! Dan made a funny. A normally open fuse!
|
|
| Author: | wjajr [ Wed Jun 03, 2015 6:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I converted from electric choke powered by ignition circuit (blue wire 12v side of ballast resistor) to relay triggered by said blue wire. This change increased voltage coil saw at + primary terminal because with choke (large current draw device) feed directly from blue wire formed a parallel to ground was reducing coil voltage. I discovered this while in a quest to improve idle. As engine was idling, disconnecting electric choke produced a cleaner more stable idle. Choke heater is always on when ignition key is in run position, and also effects coil voltage when driving down the road. A few calculations involving Ohm's Law pointed to low voltage at primary + side of coil to be a problem, and by eliminating electric choke load substituted by tinny load of relay trigger circuit the voltage & idle problems went away resulting in better overall run ability. |
|
| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Jun 03, 2015 9:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: Use an ordinary normally-open fuse of ...
Ha! Dan made a funny. A normally open fuse!
|
|
| Author: | slantvaliant [ Fri Jun 05, 2015 6:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: Quote: Use an ordinary normally-open fuse of ...
Ha! Dan made a funny. A normally open fuse!
|
|
| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Remember the harbor freight fuses, that wouldn't blow, even if connected across the battery? The wires would melt, but not the fuse. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC-08:00 |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/ |
|