I didn't plan on getting into the 1967 Dart (Steph's from Philly) until next year. But after reading the trials and tribulations....I gotta at least hear it run! Some of you have been in on her threads, so you know what I"m talking about. Brought it home, never heard it run. Its got some strange electrical / fuel things going on that need sorting. I want to hear it run before it goes into a mini hibernation until we can give it a proper "do-over".

Day 1: cleaned it out. Overall inspection. Car will need: floor repair, full shifter linkage rebuild (super sloppy - lots of bushings are gone), new parking brake cables (all 3), driver door post fix. Upgrades: front mopar slider disk brakes, big bolt 7.25 rear axle. Car is overall pretty darn solid.

Goal: make is a safe, reliable daily driver.

Tried to start it - no luck - as I thought.
Pulled plugs, Distributor, coil....will clean, adjust and reinstall.

My guess? I'm going to venture a guess......its a bad carb. I'm going to pull it and inspect - - or replace. Should be a Carter BBS (C-1).

Wanted: working carb or at least a BBS C-1 core. anyone???? let me know.

Dizzy is a duster idiot recurve. I need to read up on this and do some learnin'. looks nice! have no idea on how it runs. Also: found that nut you dropped in the dizzy Steph!!!!!!!! lol.

I still have the rear parking brake cables (the long and the short one for '67) out of my old 1967 beater valiant... Not sure if I still have the other one that goes to the pull handle... I will dig for them and hold them off to the side if interested (send PM).

Sounds like a fun project... back in "the day" a decade back, THOR and Stephanie used to come over to my house and we would work on one small project or another on their cars...sometimes other friends would stop by, trying to get my place back into shape so that can happen again...those were fun days...and workng out of a driveway with everthing stored in the one car garage, lean-to, and garden shed...

Too bad I sold all my Holley 1920's....rats...

Cable are available and pretty damn cheap from rockauto (dare I say it).
Thanks for thinking of us though!!!

I'd like to have a carb to throw on it - if anyone has a good bolt on and go!

Working in the street with winter approaching is NOT the best way to get this car up and running. TOO much to do, to make is a safe reliable car. Its got great bones! but there are a ton of "little" pain in the ass things that need to be gone over. very time consuming, and NOT AFFORDABLE....if paying for the fixes.

If all goes well....hopefully she'll get the car back if she wants it. I'm going to just do the mechanical stuff with the kids, and leave the cosmetics for the "next" guy.......

Carb search is on - -

Dook- I may have a Holley 1945 that I could contribute to the cause! I will check out my workbench and see what is hiding under there.

cool. thanks Reed. let me know

I truly would not be surprised if the carb is just needing replacement. I didn't see anything that indicated it was super bad when I took it apart, but that doesn't mean much. I will say that when it was running, it sounded like a champ.


I miss the days of heading over to DI's or Ceej & Linda's house for working on cars and great food and even better company.

Stephanie, did you have the distributor curve sheets that were in the plastic bag? Dookdart was asking for them, and I'm having to sift through a large archive drive trying to find my archive sheets...

DI: not important if not found. We're going with it, as is. no worries!

Plugs, Distributor and rocker cover off. We are going to set the valve lash cold at 12 and 24 thou. We just started, but noticed that they all seem very loose on I and E. Probably in the 80 thou range. Better than too tight though!

question: why didn't the S6s get a balance retaining bolt????? its threaded for it? (We are going to thread in a bolt so we can turn the crank over more easily to do the valve adjustments....)

Steph: got the FSM. THANKS!!!!!!

Most did not come from with a bolt, not needed. However it comes in real handy when using a degree wheel.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Took a trip out to "western" NJ to pick up a large bolt 7.25 rear from a 73 Dart. Ready to install (except for proper ebrake cables).

We watched a 1959 Chrysler division filmstrip that introduced the "new" slant 6. Interesting, but I noticed a few things.

1) pulley did indeed have a retainer bolt. why did the eliminate it and when?
2) Generator on waterpump side. Alternator came in 1962? also, why did it move to the right side of the engine? Cooling air????????
3) Introduced with the aluminum intake. why did they go to cast iron and when? was it a cost? or heat expansion issue that made them switch to cast?

Gotta love the old vids! and youtube.! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZvM_aoq8OI

YAY. Also check the plastic bag that has the old distributor in it, that was in the back seat. That should still have Rob's paperwork in it, as that's what he sent the recurve dizzy in (well, then packaged in a nice box of course). If not, I'll doublecheck my tool area to see if it got stashed there when I was working.



Not sure about the intakes specifically, but I know the aluminum engines went away after '63, though I can't remember off the top of my head why. here's a great article by Doc about the aluminum engines - http://slantsix.org/articles/dutra-bloc ... ck-sl6.htm

I'm sure someone here knows way more than that regarding the intakes and all, but it's a good place to get started.

1/28 Update:

1) all the tappets are now adjusted to .012 / .024 Cold.
2) FOUND THE DISTRIBUTOR DATA SHEET!!!! YEAH!!! right in the old dist. bag, just like Steph said they were!
3) Bench inspected the distributor to try and figure out what the heck was going on - that might lead to the "no start".
a) noticed the timing adj. tab was not centered at the dist. bottom.
b) The BIGGIE! - - the top points plate was NOT engaged with the
raised point end of the advance unit arm. Therefore, I would be
impossible to set: points gap correctly, or set timing correctly. If the distributor was in the car.......it would be just about impossible to see.

My guess: the timing adj. tab was moved, trying to compensate for the mis-aligned points plate; problem is there wasn't nearly enough adjustment available AND the vacuum and mech. advanced would never be able to move the top plate. Timing was "set" permanently at 25 deg. advance.

4) Distributor now installed - plugs and wires to follow.

Then on to the carb-o-tater.

That would do it...ouch!!!

Yay! Progress is being made. I haven't had a chance to lok yet, but I hope to get out to my garage this weekend. I have several people waiting on me for parts, but my broken foot has been keeping me less active than usual.

ARGH!

Valve Clearances set: check
Distributor function?: check
Spark to all plugs through the coil? : check
12v at coil to dist?: check
Fuel squirting into the carb?: check (from tank....not sure of condition)

Crank'er over? no fire! wtf?

plugs 3 and 4 seem wet -others not? wtf?

Compression test? #50 on 1 and 3; near zero on 2,4,5,6. wtf: bad gauge? Scary low compression if my gauge is correct.

Going to rework the carb; going to connect bottle fuel to fuel pump to bypass the tank contents. Hope for better luck on Monday!