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| Pushrod Removal https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5789 |
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| Author: | killin5 [ Mon May 19, 2003 7:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Pushrod Removal |
I am installing a duel master cylinder in my 63 Valiant. I have the master cylinder out of the car and have removed the piston. How do you ret the pushrod out of the piston? My service manual skips this part. I have read to pull it out of the MC while it is still in the car, but I had break fluid leaking into the passenger compartment and wanted to get the thing out before I ruined my fresh paint job. John Killin |
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| Author: | Slant Cecil [ Mon May 19, 2003 9:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There are grooves on the push rod and inside the piston for a rubber ring that locks them in place. You just have to pull hard enough to overcome the rubber. It's harder to do after the rubber dries out and doesn't want to compress as easy as it did when new. Are you going to the aluminum MC and AREngineering adapter? Cecil |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon May 19, 2003 9:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
To pull-out the MC pushrod, I remove the 4 nuts holding the MC to the firewall then pull it forward enough to slip some spacers between the firewall and MC. Once I have the spacers in place, go inside the car and pull up on the brake pedal, that should pop the pushrod out. You may want to move your brake stoplight switch aside so you do not smack it when the pushrod pops free. DD |
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| Author: | killin5 [ Tue May 20, 2003 8:26 am ] |
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I got the pushrod out last night. I cleaned up the MC and reinstalled it with some shims. I removed the brake light switch and pulled on the brake pedal. Popped right out just like Doug said. Cecil, I am using a drum MC from a 74 Dodge Dart. When I get to the disk conversion I may go with the aluminum MC. How did the adapter work out for you? How is your race car coming? Thanks for the help, John Killin |
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| Author: | Slant Cecil [ Thu May 22, 2003 11:33 am ] |
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John, the race car is a slow to go project. I had a ruptured brake line so I got 3 new lines, 4 wheel cyl kits, a rebuilt aluminum MC and the ARE adapter. Got half of it stripped off then started scrapping off the undercoating in the front wheel wells. I can't seem to stay on one thing at a time and I wander from one chore to the other. So I can't take it the the Southern Nationals in Reynolds GA this weekend like I wanted. Instead I'll drive my other '68 Valiant up and run it. Last time out it went 19.00s @ 72 mph, all stock, no mods and my 275 fat a$$ in the drivers seat. I may go a little quicker, last week I noticed the + and - wires to the coil were swapped. I moved them back and it seems crisper but it's probably in my head. I'll know for sure Saturday. The air won't be as good as it was when it went 19.00 so if it goes as fast, it will be an improvement. I got another Duster parts cars, come take a look and see if there's any thing you need. Thropar got the 7 1/4" rear, someone else wants some engine wiring, I want the motor/trans, odds and ends are up for grabs. Cecil |
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| Author: | killin5 [ Thu May 22, 2003 2:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cecil, I know what you mean about getting sidetracked. I removed my dash to get it painted. Then I started on the heater core, then bounced to the brakes, and also bought some shocks. I have a bunch of stuff almost done, but never really have anything finished. Then I get side tracked and do stuff like by those spindles. I really want to finish the disk conversion, but I need to get the car back on the road first. From your parts Duster, I may be interested in the lower control arms. But I should probably put the parts I have now on before I add to the collection. John |
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