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| Carter BBD Help https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57957 |
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| Author: | AValiant69 [ Fri Jun 26, 2015 5:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Carter BBD Help |
Hey everyone I'm looking for some advice. I have a 69 Valiant that has been sitting for about a year and I've been taking my summer break from school to get it running again. Long story slightly shorter I've replaced the old points dist. while switching over to a HEI setup. I have also ditched my single barrel 1920 for a Carter BBD and the super six manifolds. Here is the problem, when I got it put together it will start but immediately dies as soon as you touch the gas causing the choke to move from the initial position. I consider myself pretty handy with a wrench but carburetors give me a headache. I rebuilt the carb making sure the float was set correctly but I am not sure about making other adjustments. If anyone could point me in the right direction as to what may be causing this issue and how to make the proper adjustments I would be grateful. Super six w/HEI: https://goo.gl/photos/EoySebE4WanTkyAn6 |
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| Author: | AValiant69 [ Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Update: I was able to get it to idle by turning the curb idle screw all the way in and turning the idle mixture screws out 3 1/2 turns. It now stalls when I put it in gear. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sat Jun 27, 2015 10:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
What you describe sounds like the engine is getting too lean of s fuel mixture as soon as the choke opens up. I would verify that the manifolds are properly sealed to the head (you followed the manifold installation procedure, yes?) and then verify that the carb is adjusted properly. I would start by verifying the choke operation ad the fast idle cam adjustment. Then i would look at the metering rod adjustment. Then I would look at the idle mixture adjustment. Turning the idle screw all the way in is absolutely wrong. The idle speed screw usually winds up being between 1/2 and 3/4s screwed in. 3 1/2 turns is an OK place to start the tuning of the idle mixture screws, but is likely on the rich side of the adjustment. I think you have a vacuum leak somewhere and you need to adjust the internals of the carb. Carburetor rebuild and adjustment instructions can be found HERE. |
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| Author: | AValiant69 [ Sat Jun 27, 2015 8:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Update |
So it runs pretty good at idle now. It starts with no problems as before only now I can rev it as much as I like without it stalling. I adjusted the carb *Fast idle cam position *Choke unloader *Vacuum step up piston *Accelerator pump stroke The first two were good but the piston and pump were slightly off. I also wanted to check the vacuum kick but I don't have a tool to set the vacuum. I'll rent one from O'Reillys tomorrow. I'm not in the clear yet however, as soon as I put it in gear it stalls almost instantly. I still need to adjust the kick-down linkage from the donor vehicle; hopefully that will help. Another problem I've found is that when timing it I cant get to 20º BTDC without stumbling. As I write this it occurs to me that the mixture may need to be thinned out before I can get it closer to 5º BTDC. As always any thoughts or suggestions would be most welcome. |
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| Author: | AValiant69 [ Sat Jun 27, 2015 8:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I would verify that the manifolds are properly sealed to the head (you followed the and then verify that the carb is adjusted properly.
Thanks, I used that article in planning, I even found the Hylomar blue they suggested. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sat Jun 27, 2015 9:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Hmmmm.... |
Quote: Another problem I've found is that when timing it I cant get to 20º BTDC without stumbling. As I write this it occurs to me that the mixture may need to be thinned out before I can get it closer to 5º BTDC.
Is this base timing, initial timing or ???At idle with an unknown points distributor it can be set for best guess at 5-8 BTDC initial.... If it were a 1976-1978 EI distributor 10-12 BTDC would work. At 2500 rpm in the driveway with no vacuum advance you don't want to exceed 30 on the dial back timing light....all this assumes that your damper is still in good shape and hasn't slipped. |
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| Author: | AValiant69 [ Sun Jun 28, 2015 12:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Hmmmm.... |
Quote: Is this base timing, initial timing or ???
Thanks for the info. I hadn't thought about the HEI timing, I was going off my old points dist.
At idle with an unknown points distributor it can be set for best guess at 5-8 BTDC initial.... If it were a 1976-1978 EI distributor 10-12 BTDC would work. At 2500 rpm in the driveway with no vacuum advance you don't want to exceed 30 on the dial back timing light....all this assumes that your damper is still in good shape and hasn't slipped. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sun Jun 28, 2015 6:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... dle#378407 Also clean idle tube |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jun 28, 2015 1:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you are still having a stall condition when dropping into gear, one source of vacuum leak can be from power brake booster and or its vacuum hose attached to carburetor is so equipped. The dance that takes place between setting idle mixture, idle speed, and base timing to achieve correct idle rpm, and good drivability can take a bit of fiddling around at times. Proper choke pull off at start, and opening rate during warm-up is another variable that sometimes takes a few cold starts to get it right. |
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| Author: | AValiant69 [ Tue Jun 30, 2015 9:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Final update |
Ok everyone she's running now. Turns out it was the dizzy not the carb after all. Last night I remembered I never gaped the Distributor after I rebuilt it. Thanks to everyone for the advice, it is nice to know an amateur wrench like me has a place to turn to when stuck on a project. |
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