Hello Sages,

I need to replace this Female 8 pin spade receptacle. As you can see the Big wire from the alternator got corroded or hot at one time.

20210214_115107 by Hyperpack, on Flickr

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I often see the recommended fix is to remove that wire from both sides of the bulkhead connector completely and to splice the two ends together and insulate it. Looks like you are most of the way there already. Just use your original bulkhead connectors but drill out that one cavity and connect the two ends of the wire firmly with insulation.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I can't believe they put that much juice thru a blade connection in the 1st place. I just redid the whole under hood wiring harness on my 85 D-150 last summer, and I ran a redundant 10 ga direct from the alternator to the battery. In hopes of taking some of the load off that connector that you show.
Along the way, I deleted all of the fusible links, by adding in a junkyard sourced maxi fuse, fuse box under the hood, the most compact and out of the way unit that I could find with enough slots for what I needed (and a few extra, not overkill) was out of a square body Ranger, around a '90-92ish. I have a thread here somewhere about it, along with a link from Littelfuse describing the type of fuses contained within that fuse box,
When I'm in a campground 2 states away from my garage and tools it would be easier to change a fuses trying to locate fusible link wire
We did the same with my son's ramcharger when we did away with the lousy, late 80s Chrysler/Holley TBI// I think that he got his fuse box from a 98 Escort ZX2. Same idea but that one takes a different style of fuse, I think that they call those "J-case" fuses.
The most common place I see that kind of burnout on old Dodges, is anywhere that relates to the heater circuit from the switch to the fuse box, around that fuse, the blower resistor connection and the plug in for the blower motor itself.

I have a couple of under hood wiring harness remnants under the bench I could look and see if that plug is still there, or any good.
Those are Packard 56 terminals, and not hard to pop out of the plastic plugs.

Otherwise check out the local junkyard and see if they might have something, they used that plug well into the 80s, on trucks as well as vans, probably cars too

Thanks guys.

I was able to locate packard 56 terminal blocks and the proper removal tool on mouser.

I will take the bulkhead apart too and clean all the connections.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

My old van did the same thing. I did as Reed suggests. Those terminals should carry 15 amps max.

_________________
Joshua

The only way I would do a "stock" type repair on that connection, would be for a restoration. For safe funtionality I would upgrade that particular wire/connection. Either run a wire straight through, without a disconnect, or if you prefer a disconnect, use something like a bulk head connector. Something like this. They come in different sizes.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor- ... gJ9GfD_BwE

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Here is a good How to on upgrading / Bypassing the Alternator Current Gauge..
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml

Maybe it could be added to the electrical section FAQ?


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

False.

See here and here and here, etc.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Okay, I stand corrected.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack