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D Series Truck: Small Block to Slant 6 Swap.
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58302
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Author:  mopar225 [ Mon Sep 07, 2015 3:45 pm ]
Post subject:  D Series Truck: Small Block to Slant 6 Swap.

I have a 76' D150 that had a 360 in it at one time.
I have a good /6 laying around and would like to get the truck going again!
I cant find anyone who has really done this swap, I know its usually the other way around.
Has anyone done this or found brackets to make it work?
Worst case I'll have to make my own and do some welding.

Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 07, 2015 3:57 pm ]
Post subject: 

K frame is the same, you just need to find the truck/van engine mounts. The motor mounts for slant sixes are the same in trucks and vans from the early 70s until 1987. You need a set of the slant six motor mounts, the truck/van specific oil pan and pickup and dipstick and tube, a transmission that will mate to the slant six, and that is it. I have swapped a B series van from a 318 to a slant and in that application the wiring stretched to the the slant six. The exhaust had to be reworked, but the radiator worked with a "universal fit" flex hose on the upper radiator fitting.

Author:  mopar225 [ Mon Sep 07, 2015 5:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

Awesome, that helps out alot!
/6 still has the trans on it so thats good.
I'm assuming your talking about the mounts that are directly bolted to the engine?

Whats different about the oil pan?

The same drive line can be used?

Author:  Reed [ Mon Sep 07, 2015 7:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

Provided the transmission for the slant six is the same as the transmission that was behind the 360, the original driveshaft can be used.

The slant six truck/van oil pan is dramatically deeper and of a different shape than any of the passenger car oil pans. The 70s era car oil pan *might* fit in the truck's K-frame, but I strongly recommend you try and find a truck/van pan and pickup.

The motor mounts I am talking about are the metal mounts that bolt directly to the block as well as the "sandwich" rubber mounts. As an aside, be prepared to shell out big bucks for a decent set of rubber motor mounts. The crap coming out of China and India these days lasts a year, if you are lucky, before needing to be replaced.

Author:  kesteb [ Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:33 pm ]
Post subject: 

Personally, I would just drop in a remanufactured 360. Swapping in a \6 would cost as much or more to make it a success.

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Sep 08, 2015 5:40 am ]
Post subject: 

Odds are the transmissions are different, if they are/were both automatics. 360 would probably have a 727, where the slant six most likely had a 904. There are slant six 727's out there, but they are getting harder to find.

I agree that it would probably be more cost effective to stay with a 360

Author:  coconuteater64 [ Tue Sep 08, 2015 5:29 pm ]
Post subject: 

Like you said, I've gone the other way but not V8 to slant six. Mine was a manual trans so I used the same trans. I will throw my hat in there and say it would be sooo much simpler to swap in another smallblock instead of the slant. Otherwise, going to the junkyard might yield all the little bits and pieces that would nickel and dime you to death.

Author:  slantzilla [ Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:11 pm ]
Post subject: 

Is the smallblock trans and exhaust left in the truck?

If you are starting from scratch with no trans or anything Slant away.

Author:  mopar225 [ Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:27 pm ]
Post subject: 

The 360 and the 727 that was with it are gone.
Yes the two manifolds are still hooked up the the exhaust.

Yes I believe that the \6 has the 904 on it.

I did do some calling around today to some junk yards, one is a bit of a drive but said he has a seized \6 in a truck. about $100 for pan,pickup, and mounts.
Waiting to hear from a place that is close by.

I tried google to search for pic of the pan and mounts, but all i'm getting is mounts to swap to V8 lol.

So if I can get away with $100 for that and a little drive, I would just have to measure drive line and get it cut and balanced.
I'm not sure what a 318 or 360 that runs would be going for...

Author:  coconuteater64 [ Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:07 pm ]
Post subject: 

Don't get me wrong, I would like to see another slanted truck around here. But there are a few things that you'll need to make it work. If it's power steering, you'll need the slant six bracket for the pump. You'll need a slant six fan shroud I believe, but I could be wrong about that. You can probably hook up to the existing exhaust easy enough if you lop off one side of it. The transmission mount is of no concern, that's easy. Make sure you get the frame mounts for the slant six and nab the motor mounts if you go to the junkyard. You'll also need the transmission coolant lines to the radiator. The wiring and fuel lines are straightforward pretty much. There's also a drive shaft issue so if you can find one for your wheelbase and transmission, better to get one from the junkyard than modifying one.

It's a little more involved than with a Chevrolet, but it sounds more daunting than it really is.

Author:  Reed [ Tue Sep 08, 2015 10:43 pm ]
Post subject: 

Strip as much as you can from that truck with the seized engine. Mounts from the block to the K-frame, first few feet of the exhaust pipe, trans cooler lines, driveshaft (if the trans is the same as the one you are putting in), fuel line from the frame rail to the pump and from the pump to the carb, radiator fan shroud or the whole radiator assembly, oil pan, oil pump pickup, kick down linkage from the carb to the transmission (including the little arm on the transmission itself), and any other obvious pieces.

Author:  Rick Covalt [ Wed Sep 09, 2015 6:16 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
The 70s era car oil pan *might*fit
Pretty sure I checked this when I did one of my 4 engine removals in the last 2 years. And it is a no go.

Rick

Author:  xjarhead [ Wed Sep 09, 2015 4:30 pm ]
Post subject: 

My 86 oil pan is rear sump.

Dave

Author:  mopar225 [ Mon Sep 14, 2015 4:09 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Strip as much as you can from that truck with the seized engine. Mounts from the block to the K-frame, first few feet of the exhaust pipe, trans cooler lines, driveshaft (if the trans is the same as the one you are putting in), fuel line from the frame rail to the pump and from the pump to the carb, radiator fan shroud or the whole radiator assembly, oil pan, oil pump pickup, kick down linkage from the carb to the transmission (including the little arm on the transmission itself), and any other obvious pieces.
Ok, thats great idea. You added more than what I was thinking!
Awesome. Thanks!!

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