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Newer manifold/carb in a 62 Valiant
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58365
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Author:  valiant_200 [ Fri Sep 18, 2015 2:05 pm ]
Post subject:  Newer manifold/carb in a 62 Valiant

I am about to install a manifold on a 1965 225 engine destined for a `62. It is a newer style manifold with four studs, to accept a Carter BBD. How much trouble am I heading into here? How do I get the choke to work? What is the best approach to make the kickdown linkage work?

If it is a giant hassle, I have manifold sets and carbs to build it stock. But since I have the newer manifold, with its generous intake and exhaust flow, on hand it might be worth some mods.

Author:  Wesola78 [ Sat Sep 19, 2015 8:18 am ]
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I think that as long as you have all the harware, linkage, etc., you should be fine.

Author:  Jsp [ Sat Sep 19, 2015 9:57 am ]
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When you get to install the super six, hold on tight, the power increase is awesome.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Sep 19, 2015 10:45 am ]
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Install a number 1232 Electric choke kit. You'll need to convert the car from rotating-rod throttle to cable-type throttle; this will mean installing a different accelerator pedal assembly and a cable of the correct length (this one). If the car's got an automatic transmission, and you don't have the complete kickdown linkage that goes with the 2bbl setup, see this thread for kickdown options.

Carburetor availability is a problem; at this late date it's hard to find a good suitable carburetor.

Air cleaner selection is also a problem; the factory '77-up Super Six 2bbl air cleaner will usually fit because it's a low-profile item, but others make hood-clearance problems on a '62 (with 225 engine -- if you have a 170, the fit issue is less severe).

You may want to look at alternatives. See the parallel 2bbl setup article. Photo documentation of a very well done such conversion is (or was) here.

It will also be wise to install a larger exhaust headpipe. The 2bbl cars got a 2¼" headpipe instead of the puny 1¾" item the earlly 1bbl cars like your '62 had.

Author:  valiant_200 [ Sat Sep 19, 2015 12:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

Hi everyone and thanks for taking the time to respond.

So this is a real Super Six intake that I have. I thought they had aluminum intakes. You never can be sure when harvesting parts from the local pick-n-pull if what you have is the real thing, or some bastardization like I am thinking of cooking up here.

When I took this intake, I grabbed everything. It all came off of a `79 Volare. I should have the kickdown linkage. I will double check. I know I grabbed the accelerator pedal and cable assembly, so that is done.

I have a couple of carbs that would fit. Both are junk yard refugees and would need to be rebuilt. I guess I need to find a kit.

Unfortunately, a couple of the links in Dan's post are dead, but I will look into the electric choke.

I am tempted to rebuild this thing stock, as I am keen to see it moving again. It has been sitting on stand in my shop for several years and I would like to move it, if for no other reason, to clean behind it.

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Sep 19, 2015 3:38 pm ]
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Quote:
So this is a real Super Six intake that I have. I thought they had aluminum intakes.
"Super Six" was the marketing name given to the US/Canada-market 2bbl 225 engine that was available from 1977-'82. The intake manifolds were made in both aluminum and cast iron, depending on production date.
Quote:
When I took this intake, I grabbed everything. It all came off of a `79 Volare. I should have the kickdown linkage.
Hopefully including the lever on the transmission; that's needed if you're using the 2bbl kickdown linkage (it's different to the 1bbl lever).

Author:  valiant_200 [ Sun Sep 20, 2015 1:40 pm ]
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Thanks for everything so far.

The devil is in the details!

Looks like I didn't grab the lever part. I have the rod that goes down to the lever, with the small block that has the bolt in it, and a spring.

I am trying to make this work with a 60-65 904. What am I missing and does anyone here have one lying around?

Author:  neilskiw [ Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:07 pm ]
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Quote:
Thanks for everything so far.

The devil is in the details!

Looks like I didn't grab the lever part. I have the rod that goes down to the lever, with the small block that has the bolt in it, and a spring.

I am trying to make this work with a 60-65 904. What am I missing and does anyone here have one lying around?
Do you have the flat banana shaped piece from the bar to the carb?

The Super 6 lever measures (near as I can figure) 2.4 inches (center to center) from the hole for the trans to the hole for the pivot block. Your 1 barrel arm only measures 1.75 inches (c2c)

One issue I ran into was the Super 6 arm hits the floor pan just underneath the gas pedal. This prevents the arm from moving rearward enough to signal the transmission. I (purists stop reading now) beat the floor pan repeatedly with a hammer to generate the necessary clearance. Also, the original lever comes straight out to the side, whereas the S6 arm angles forward to just touch the Pushbutton Auto shift cable adjustment wheel. It didn't seem to negatively affect the lever movement, though.

Another issue I experienced was the S6 kickdown bar located itself dead center in the space for the exhaust pipe (remember, it was designed for a newer wider vehicle with more open space). I ultimately got a random bar from a V-8 van, and made my own Supersixish bar that hugged the trans and block tighter, thus leaving more space for the Dutra Dual pipes to exit.

I've taken some photos. I'll post them if I can navigate the web hosting issues.

Author:  Doctor Dodge [ Mon Sep 21, 2015 6:27 am ]
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Quote:
... I am trying to make this work with a 60-65 904. What am I missing and does anyone here have one lying around?...
I have the longer KD lever so send me a PM if you need one.
DD

Author:  neilskiw [ Mon Sep 21, 2015 10:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Pics of Kickdown Lever

Image

Image

The measure is on the Super 6 arm (@ 2.4 inches C2C )
The arm in the center is a random arm. I think from a V-8 van. (2.0 c2c)
The shortest (1.75 c2c) is the original on my '64 PB 904

Notice that the 2 longer arms are similarly oriented so that the arm "leans forward" when mounted on the trans. This allows for longer travel of the lever, to match the movement of the throttle.

Author:  valiant_200 [ Wed Sep 30, 2015 2:06 am ]
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Those are great illustrations. I am sure I am not the only one who will benefit from seeing these details.

Big thanks for everyone's help so far. Neilskiw, I do have the banana shaped piece from the bar to the carb. I took everything from the top of the engine, intake, exhaust, carb, associated hardware and the kickdown linkage. The only thing I am missing is the arm on the transmission.

As for making room for this new hardware, I have no problem beating the floor into submission if I have to. After all, I installed that floor. Not like I am messing up some pristine original specimen.

Author:  neilskiw [ Wed Sep 30, 2015 7:44 am ]
Post subject:  Gas Pedal

I used the early V-8 gas pedal (thanks D.D.) which attaches to the floor. This is exactly where the floor required extra love to make space for the kickdown arm.

I know other folks have used the later (70's vintage) gas pedal, but it wont match your brake and clutch pedals. I guess it comes down to how particular or creative you are, and what parts are available.

Author:  valiant_200 [ Sun Dec 04, 2016 5:17 pm ]
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Thanks to all for their insight into my project so far. It is time for an update.

Earlier in the thread, I noted that I had two carbs to choose from. One of them, a BBD off of a 79 Volare, is stuck together by the throttle assembly, which is stuck in the bowl and resists all attempts to dismantle it. Junk.

The second one is a much simpler design. It came off of a mid-80's Dodge pickup, but I am pretty sure it is older than that, as it has very few of the bells and whistles of the later BBDs. This one was disassemble friendly, so I rebuilt it.

Unfortunately, its performance on the engine is severely lacking. It is quite prone to leakage and oozes fuel seemingly from every gasket and orifice when cranked. It seems to be over-filling with fuel. I tried swapping needle valve with a known-good carb and it leaks. I took it off and dismantled it down to the float. Everything seems to be OK and adjusted. Put it back together and it leaks. Unless someone has some idea I have missed, I think this one might be junk too.

So I went looking around for a replacement. The only options seem to be a rebuilt unit, which seemingly everyone in this community shuns and hates, or new Chinese knock-offs, which Slant Six Dan has warned against in other threads. To make things even more complex, there are several varieties of BBD carbs to choose from.

So my questions are two:

1. Are there any other options for a decent carb to get my setup running?

2. What is the best version of the BBD to put on a 1965 slant six?

Author:  emsvitil [ Sun Dec 04, 2016 5:33 pm ]
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what kind of float?

Older plastic floats sometime absorb gas and sink..........

Author:  valiant_200 [ Sun Dec 04, 2016 6:30 pm ]
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The floats in my carb are brass.

I checked them for leaks and there doesn't appear to be any fluid in them. Sticking maybe?

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