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Recommendations for engine swap sequence?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58732		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Sam Powell [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 5:54 am ]
Post subject:  Recommendations for engine swap sequence?
Hi, I am not used to thinking of engines as swap out parts (slants run forever you know), but Lou has "loaned" me an engine to use while I build another engine. (There is nothing really wrong with the old one). So t his winter I am going to take out the current engine, and install Lou's. I will use my current induction system, distributor and exhaust set up.

The question is, what advice do you have for a sequence? Should I take the exhaust completely out? I is all welded from the manifold to the mufflers. Should I leave the tranny in, and if so, how do I support it while the engine is out. It has AC, so must first have the refrigerant professionally evacuated. I seem to recall Rick C. left his tranny in while he had his engine out to rebuild it.

Here is a not-too-well thought list of my own;
1.Evacuate AC, and remove.
2.Remove hood.
3. Take off exhaust.
4. Remove Alternator. Remove power steering pump and hoses.
5. Remove intake comboand fuel lines. (could be done after engine is out.)
6.Take off TC inspection plate, and unbolt TC.
7.Drain radiator, and block and remove radiator.
8. Lower tranny enough to remove upper bolts to engine.
9. jack all back up and reinstall cross member.
10. Remove engine mount bolts.
11. Maybe remove distributor first.
12. Pull engine.

Assemble parts from my old engine needed to complete Lou's and reverse process. While engine is out, I am planning on detailing the engine compartment, most particularly the fire wall to cut down on leaks, both smell, and heat. I might insulate it somehow like modern cars.

What have I forgotten? Tranny coolant line go into separate cooler, and not into radiator.

Thanks. Sam
Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:31 am ]
Post subject: 
I recommend leaving the trans in place. The car will be supported on jack stands and the trans can be supported under the pan by a floor jack or a wood block and jack stand. If you remove the starter you can access the torque converter bolts there and not have to crawl on the floor.

I have not needed to lower the transmission to reach any engine-to-transmission bolts. End wrenches are more compact the ratchets.

With a stock exhaust system it simply unbolts from the manifold and stays in place, but I don't know your arrangement.

Drain and remove the radiator and the cooling fan if engine driven. I leave the alternator and distributor, but if your're clumsy you can break the distributor cap.
Author:  Reed [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:59 am ]
Post subject: 
What Josh said. I usually don't even pull the radiator and the last few times I haven't pulled the hood, either (even on an A body).
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have never removed the tranny with any of my engine swaps. You have a lift Sam, so run it up and hook a decent strap binder from tortion bar to tortion bar under the transmission. You can put a block of wood under it you want also.

i always take 5 minutes and remove the hood and 30 seconds to remove the distributor. I like all the extra room I can get.

Do you have to evacuate the A/C? I'm guessing it can't be hung out of the way?

Rick
Author:  Reed [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 1:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
I bet if you are careful and find somewhat to support the HEAVY compressor bracket and compressor that you can get around having to evacuate the AC system.

A lift?!? I am very jealous. The last engine removal I did I was rolling around on the cold cement in a slush of tranny fluid and kitty litter with the car on jack stands.
Author:  Greg Ondayko [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have done this job without disconnecting the a/c stuff. If you want to evac and pull down the system then fine, but if you can hang it out of the way that will work.

It always takes a bit of time to blow the system down, then pull a vacuum, add refrigerant, and then get it all back up again.

I would think that if you can just get the compressor off to the side that is most effective.


Greg
Author:  Sam Powell [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 7:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate the tips.

Sam
Author:  Reed [ Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
You know, since you have a lift it would be fairly simple to drop the engine, k frame, and trans. Pull the T bars, unbolt the k frame, pull the driveshaft, unbolt the rear trans crossmember, hoist away!
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
You know, since you have a lift it would be fairly simple to drop the engine, k frame, and trans. Pull the T bars, unbolt the k frame, pull the driveshaft, unbolt the rear trans crossmember, hoist away!
Disconnect the shocks, upper control arms, brake lines, steering couppler.
Personally I find it easier to come out the top, with or without the trans.
Author:  Reed [ Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
You know, since you have a lift it would be fairly simple to drop the engine, k frame, and trans. Pull the T bars, unbolt the k frame, pull the driveshaft, unbolt the rear trans crossmember, hoist away!
Disconnect the shocks, upper control arms, brake lines, steering couppler.
Personally I find it easier to come out the top, with or without the trans.
Me, too. I was just throwing out another option. I recently parted a 68 Dart where I dropped the engine, trans, K frame, and front suspension as a unit. The grill and radiator were pushed in so bad that it was actually easier to drop everything out the bottom, and I wanted all those parts anyway.
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