When I bought my '67 dart one thing I noticed straight away was at night with the headlights on, the headlight switch on the dash got really warm to slightly hot. I pulled the switch and, because the windshield had been leaking, water had rusted the contacts pretty badly. I changed the switch and the hot issue was gone, worked fine.

I also noticed at that time, while checking the circuit, that the floor switch for high and low beams had a melted pigtail. I cut off the pigtail and replaced the connectors and the switch down there. No issues.

Recently, like 3 years later, I've noticed that my headlights don't work sporadically. When I toggle the high/low beam floor switch they come back on. Here is a picture of the switch.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 6.jpg.html

Notice one wire is getting really hot, see the brown/black boot (that used to be clear)? Also, I see rust on one mounting bolt and the contact in question, could be that water got to it over the past 3 years, as it sits right under the vent box where the leaky windshield (I tried to seal it, it's on my list to replace the rubber/glass) sometimes leaves water and it drips to the floor (maybe it hit the switch).

Question: is this a crappy/worn out switch issue? The main headlight switch is not getting warm, but it is obvious that the connection on the floor switch is. I'm sure I paid little for that floor switch. Is there a decent or higher end model available.

I also will recheck the wiring, and Dan's headlight relay upgrade to get the heavy current out of the passenger compartment has been on my list for some time.

Thanks for any feedback/help on this. Also, do they still sell the pigtail for the floor switch; I couldn't find it at the time, 3 years ago.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Faulty kickswitch. I also notice, in your photo, at least one of those terminals is getting hot enough to roast its insulation. You've still got high resistance in your headlamp circuit. Fix it permanently...
...with this. Articles here and here and here. The photos of the headlight beams on the road are very poor in both articles (because reasons) but the text is dependable.
Standard Ignition № S64 or Wells-Airtex 1P1008.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If you understand relays, you could rewire so that the kickswitch is only used to switch a standard relay between high and low.........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I highly recommend equipment purchased through Dan. The headlamps, lenses, and all of his equipment is top notch. Not a paid endorsement. Just fact.

In the photo below Top to bottom Relays are Ignition, Low Beam, High Beam, and Horn. I used Bosch relays that were leftover from our Chumpcar (Bavarian Money Waster.... but it does have a slanted six).

Thanks Dan and all, I'll get to work on it so I don't lose my headlamps entirely one night...

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

It was apparently only the floor switch. I changed out connectors for a pigtail (thanks Dan) and a new switch. It works fine now and neither the switch nor the connectors are getting even warm, nice and cool.

I tore open the old switch and the low beam contact was not as prominent as the other contacts, I think it was arcing and heating up.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2