I've finally torn down my '63 225 to the point where I'm ready to stand-mount it.

But how do I pull the engine and transmission apart? I spent this evening removing all the bolts between the transmission bell housing and block. Hooked the engine to the cherry picker, and removed the nuts on the engine mounts. But I could not pull the engine apart from the transmission.

I can see that in order to separate from the tranny the engine must slide forward somewhat (I believe). But the only way it could slide forward would be to punch out the bolts that currently run through the engine mounts. But something about that doesn't seem right: the FSM states to 'remove the front engine mount nuts and lift the engine out". Remarkably brief description!

What's the right order so I can get the engine out? Is there a step I missed?

Just did this by myself 3 days back in pulling an engine and tranny combo...

1)Pull bellhousing and torque convertor bolts. (remove the inspection plate from the tranny). There are bolts from the tranny side to the engine on the upper backof the block, there are 2 from the engine ears to the tranny on each side of the bottom, there are 2 at the 'support ear' under the starter, and 4 torque convertor to flex plate.
2) Remove the starter from the bellhousing (if you remove the battery from the vehicle you can lay the starter in the tray with the wires attached.
3) remove your engine connections (ground strap, fuel pump hose, heater hoses, power steering pump, alternator, dizzy connection, radiator hoses, and radiator).
4) Loosen the engine mount bolt nuts about 1/2-3/4" (uses 3/4" wrench/ratchet...air wrench).
5) Install your engine pick chain or eyelet.
6) Position engine hoist/crane.
7) Position small jack underneath transmission body if not pulling the whole enchilada.
Jack up hoist until you get tension, have friend jack up the crane while you wiggle the engine or use prybar to persuade the engine off of the tranny...eventually the tranny will 'top out' at the top of the tranny tunnel, and the motor mount(s) will either clear or allow one or the other to come loose and eventually it will come apart.

Options:
It's easier to pull and replace the engine if you jack the rear wheels up and put on stands and leave the front wheels on the ground...if done right this way, you may not need to remove the hood...

Sometimes cussing helps...it's more effective after you pinch your hand or bust a knuckle or the engine and crane don't cooperate...

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Thanks DI. I guess it would help if I pulled the torque converter bolts. Forgot those. Actually, I never knew I had to.



Learning as I go. Gracias.

I've pulled it that way and have damaged the tranny(pump) and hub on the back of the torque convertor, it also gives you the room you need to just lift the engine out wihtout having to clear the tranny bell.

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Got it out. Thanks DI. Engine came out easy, once I removed all the torque converter bolts, and wiggled/pried it just a little. Surprisingly easy. On to next steps.

Nice work....can't wait to it painted and ready to put back in.....

_________________
1964 Dodge Dart 270 four door. Three speed automatic 225 Slant with a Carter BBS carb.

I am dredging up an old thread so I dont start a new one....

These are all great tips....

What about the auto transmission fluid lines?

On our 80 Volare, the lines are attached to the oil pan by a bolt and run very snug to the block....

I am assuming we have to disconnect at the tranny end and pull the lines completely out of the car?

If you aren't removing the transmisison you can just undo the bolt holding the trans line clip to the engine and remove the engine. The trans lines can remain in place.

I just pulled the 225 out of my '64 this weekend. I pulled the transmission cooling lines out to prevent potential damage. They kind of snake around the motor mount and were generally in the way.

Unfortunately, this leads to mission creep: I may get or make a new set, possibly rerouting the lines to an auxiliary cooler.

But for now, I'm on scraping and cleaning detail.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Thanks Reed....good to know....

But as slantvaliant said, on our car they snake around the mount etc and hug the block VERY tight.They also sneak up and over the bellhousing and go "somewhere".....

I think we are going to see how much pain it will mean to remove them...

To be truthful neither leaving them on or removing them looks easy....LOL

Unbolt them from the cooler on the bottom of the radiator, unbolt them from the transmission, snake them out the bottom of the car somewhere. I have pulled slant sixes in early, mid, and late a bodies, B bodies, F bodies, and vans and never removed the cooling lines from the vehicle (unless I was removing them for some other reason). But, as always, do what works best for you and you are most comfortable doing.

We got ours out today!!

Is it ok to leave the convertor in the trans while the engine isboit?

I swear I read somewhere that it should not be left on the trans long term with out the engine mated up as it will stress the trans front pump???

Its not a problem to leave the torque converter in the trans. In fact if you pull it out you will have to change trans fluid. Although if you have any sign of even minor leakage from the front trans seal now would be an opportune time to replace it.