Hi all!!!

It has been a while since I last posted here, but fortunatelly I'm now in the process to finish my Slant and my Valiant for drag racing.

I do have a question about roller lifters, since I have two billet cams already I want to move to roller, but several questions rise and I wasn't able to find the answer doing a forum serch.

It is know that both LA and RB block share the .904 lifter bore of the Slant, so any Roller lifter with .904 diameter will fit. My doubt comes in about the distance between every two lifter bores and the Link bar that is needed for that.

How long should the link bar be and how much "play" must the lifter had at each link bar end? Also the play should cover not only the lifter bore distance between two but also the distance put between one lifter being up an the other down for a .600 lift cam.

Onother thing is how about the clearence between the link and the engine block? Most of the links goes outside of the .904 diameter, so clearence against the block has to be a concern here.

I did check a Comp Cams Roller Lifter design that had the link on the inside part #8043-16, they are for SB with V link bar, so everything looks good except that I think they are too close to each other.

Also, how does the roller tip diameter affects cam duration/acceleration/ or anything? Should this be a concern when selecting the Lifters?

How is engine oiling affected by using roller lifters?

Ok. Too many questions for one post already. But I've been reading most of the post about Roller Lifters and still can't get a definitive answer on this. So here I'm!!!

Regards, Martin

_________________
Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)

You can use a custom made link bar but the side "button" needs to be "shallow" to clear the block.
You can also put a groove in the lifter bore and use a pin-in groove" method to keep the roller lifters from spinning.

And Yes... the roller wheel size will impact the cam lobe design so select your lifter before grinding the cam.
DD

Ok. I do understand that I can machine the block with a grinder to get more clearence between the block wall and the roller lifter mount, I would rather go that way instead of the lifter buttom.

I'm looking at Comp Cams 892C rollers and after that I'll have to look for a link bar that fits the Slant or fabricate one.

But will the link bar be enugh for preventing the roller to spin aroun in the tappet bore? Not sure about the groove in the bore and the pin to follow the groove, is the pin goes out ...

Any other way, besides the link bar to loock the rollers from turning in the bore?

Thanks for your imput on this DD!

_________________
Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)

Those lifters were my first choice when I started doodling a roller cam engine 10 years ago, the link bar has enough play to allow you to adjust if the slant lifter bores are not 100% centered in distance apart. Having test fitted on set into the lifter bay of a dummy block I had to get in the gallery and carve out some block for the link bar to fit. I forget which brand Dave Mueller uses, but his is strictly a race and turn off vehicle not constant use (he also is using a stock reground cam for this...but would not advise it for long term use...Dave does tear his engine down to inspect things every season or so...

There are other brands of lifter with different capture techniques...if the lifter bay wasn't so tight there are a couple other options that are more positive for capture or don't rely on a sigle bar, but most are designed for the relatively open valley in a V-8 block.

Not sure if you have thought that far in advance but I was going to also put stand pipes in the lifter gallery drain holes to retain some oil, and use comp cams lifter bore scoring tool to put a scratch up and down in each lifter bore so a stream of oil can be directed to the top of each cam lobe ensuring the roller has some constant lubrication... my second option was to install a drizzle bar plumbed to the oil galley... my other option was to go with a hydro cam and drill the body so the bleed down oil dripped right on the roller...

Food for thought.

Good luck on your project.

Thanks DI on your imput!!!!

Those CC Roller lifters seem to fit the bill, but maybe instead of buying the ones in pairs already with the link on them I should double check if its better to buy them alone and choose a separate link bar also from CCams. Or you thin I could just buy thos in pairs with the link fo BBM and they will have enugh play to sit in the bores and follow each cam lobe?

About the stand pipes and the groove in the lifter bores I think its a good idea and I'll sure go that way along with the Roller Lifters. I'm only not sure about a pin in the roller to go in the groove as DD said.

I also wonder if the link bar will be enough to hold the rollers for twisting over the cam lobe.

Also, since I don't have my cam grinded yet I think I can take advantage of the biggest wheel diameter for roller tip that I can fit there, I'm I right?

_________________
Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)

Or Vice Versa (some V-8 guys sleeve the lifter bore so they can use Chevy lobes and lifters...the wheel size can change the characteristics of the cam and how radical the lobe can be... but if buying over the counter roller lifters you will be stuck in the common sizes...that being said, $300 for 16 lifters and link bars is a screaming deal compared to the prices 10 years ago ($800)

I don't have a comment on link bar selection, we just got the option here in Oregon to be able to order roller cams (previously the choices were regrind and hope it lasts, or order a blank at $1000 unmachined)

I'll be following your posts as you put this together...I will probably get serious about this particular project in another year or two...

On friday I'll be with my engine and I'll take some measures about lifter bores distance for each pair so I can reduce to a better lifter + link bar selection. I'll keep you posted on this.
Once I have most of the parts for the build I will post about my engine in its entirelly and also about the car to get your feedback. Martin

_________________
Martin Zappettini
1974 Dodge Polara RT 318cu.
1965 Valiant III Coronado Slant Six 6-Pack (soon!!)