From the looks of the intake runner, the best place for Injector bungs would be in the head itself. Has anyone done this? I don't have a guinnea pig head to test, can anyone tell me how much water jacket and what the port thickness is above the intake runner on a 69' head? I'm going to drill press drill the holes and pipe thread the intake runner and screw in a piece of 3/8" pipe (drilled to .550 ID) with epoxy to seal the threads and water on top. After trimming the tightened pipe it should give a nice 1" long bung pointed directly to the back of the intake valve.

Anyone's thoughts on this? I'm building a Turbo/EFI 225.
Also, At what HP level will the Main caps need a steel back brace? I'm looking at 350-400hp with this build using a HX35 turbo and 42lb injectors. I was going to machine the main caps flat on top and install a 3/4" tall steel bar with the cap and ARP studs.(not too deep for oil flow).

I'm also looking for 198 rods to use SRT4 neon pistons on. with a CD of 1.432" and 87.5mm bore and .866" wrist pin. I figure I'll take about
.100-.150" off the top of the block to get some quench from these
large-dished(-20cc) forged pistons.

Going to use 1.70- 1.44 21-4n alloy stainless valves with hard exh. seats. with minor chamber/port work.

Does this sound about right? thanks

Jay

The problem will be making sure that the exhaust ports don't heat that section of the head hot enough to burn up the o-rings... I don't think there's a water jacket close enough to that section to keep it 'moderated'...

I had a cad file made up at one point in time for a 'runner' spacer/bevelled plate to add between the head and intake/exhaust manifolds... with no water running through the spacer, it would've cooked the injectors and rings....

-D.Idiot

I figure as long as the injector bung is exposed to coolant, the temp must not get THAT much over coolant temp, 200-250 degrees is fine.

That seems excessive to me, I would think a custom manifold that is log style would be safer and easier.
The 2.2L pistons would be cheaper and easier than the neon one's. Forged is good, but I think with the correct AFR the hyper's will be fine at 15lbs not to metion forged is heavier than cast so make sure you've looked into the weight vs strength part. 350-400hp seems difficult to me even with boost, but you picked the right turbo as far as I can tell. I picked either the t60 or the gt35r so hopefully the compressor maps are something similar. Also, going backed to forged I think custom would be better in the long run instead of trying to make the neon ones work.

I'm building this for a customer so I need it to be indestructable. I'm actually looking at the K1 Rod/Piston combo now, I just need it in a big dish. I want the injectors to point at the back of the intake valve, Anywhere in the intake they will just hit a wall. I just drilled and tapped an old cast iron intake manifold that is shaped like the intake port, I threaded in a 1/4" pipe with epoxy then flush cut the top and trimmed the rest that was inside the port. It sealed well. and is a pipe thread so it will never move. I then drilled the pipe for .560 and stuck an injector into it.
I doubt the injector will get too hot with the tube sitting in coolant. injectors are good to +300deg.

Here are some pics of the injector bungs I put into the head. I used 3/8" pipe and 2 part 3M epoxy. Came out pretty good to me.

Cool,, I would like to see the results of this under real conditions.. on a running engine with coolant around the injector tubes. Also it might make removal of the Valve cover and adjusting the valves a bit more of a task.

Keep us posted.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I'm thinking a fairly narrow injector spray pattern would be needed to keep the fuel off the walls of the tube. Looks good so far!

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Joshua

The Injectors will sit half way into the tube. So figure on about less than 1" from tip of injector to end of tube.

The injectors are also angled away from the valve cover by about 15 deg.
So the body of the injectors will be farther away from the cover and It points the injector more toward the valve. I'm using 42lb Green top Ford injectors, they have a fairly narrow spray cone. Wish me luck. lol

Also You can see how much coolant passage there is around the tubes, Should be fine as far as keeping the o-rings, injectors from getting too hot.

Hey Josh, Didn't I sell you something a while ago? Or you were asking me questions about my 452ci EFI 62' Valiant? I'm in Northern California, Your name sounds familiar.

Cool. I'll be interested to see how the epoxy/water seal holds up.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

You read my mind!

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... ht=#199513

It looks great! I'd really like to know more about how this thing runs when it's done. I'm more interested in a lower performance version with good efficiency and ideal distribution.

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It is easier to REACT,
than it is to THINK!

Middy.

new pic, bungs came out good.

Ok, so I ended up brazing them in. Also the stock manifold sure will take a T3 flange HX35 turbo easily. Positions it just right. I wonder how much power can be made on the stock manifold? It's easy enough to find out. Building hedders sux. Onward and upward.





P.S. I keep looking at the wording under peoples screen names and I can't beleve all the people who have EFI and turbo EFI engines. Guess it's pretty common.

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I've done several Mega-Squirt projects, Used to have a 62' 452ci EFI Signet Valiant. Do-it-yourself'er extraordinare. Smog Technician by day, Computer Geek by night.

That's a user title - it has nothing to do with what the people actually have.

(I really do have a turbo / EFI slant, but you'll see I am listed as a board sponsor instead.)

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair