How can I tell what alternator I have?

(87 B-150).

I recall a couple debates (both while my dad still owned it, and since I've had it) re. up-sizing etc.

I don't know if he or I ever did anything about that, or what amperage the last one I put in was.

After a string of bum rebuilts that only lasted months at a time, at best, I got lucky and put in one that has lasted for 14 years or so.

In that time, I forgot what amperage I had gotten.

It behaves like it has worn brushes. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild that one myself, or buy a new higher amperage one.

Post a picture.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Brushes are super easy and inexpensive on these alternators. I'd throw in a set and see what happens.

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Joshua

Thanks

So can anybody tell from these photos what amperage it is?

I guess the brushes are the same nmw, but the rectifiers are different, per rockauto.

(Also, I am considering running a higher than stock amperage to power my H4 headlight conversion and power an inverter. idk if this is already higher than stock),

That looks like the standard 78(ish) amp alternator. Kinda hard to really say for certain. I thought there might be a rating stamped on the mounting 'ears' somewhere but I am not certain about that.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Definitely not the 100 amp alternator. Probably somewhere in the 40-60 amp range. If you are looking for an amp upgrade, look into the later model nippondenso alternator retrofit. See HERE.

If you go to a higher amp alternator, DON'T FORGET TO UPGRADE THE WIRING!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If you just want to power your H4 lights and not alot of extras, then get a H4 wireing kit that mounts the power wire to your battery. This will allow your bulbs to have a constant voltage, even at idle. As long as your charging/starting systems are in good working order.
This is the one I have when I converted over to H4 bulbs.
http://www.classicindustries.com/produc ... 01132.html

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~Nic

As for the inverter It also needs to be connected to the battery. I dont think changing the alternator would help you except to recharge the battery quicker.

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~Nic

YES! If you have a weak link in the system, adding a much more demanding device (headlights, amplifier, etc) will reveal where the weak link is located, most likely too late. The "squish wire" (what I call the positive wire that the factory sort of pressure fused together) on my truck burned to a crisp when we added lights and stereo.

As for upgraded lighting, Dan is your source for what works best.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Thanks,

I already upgraded my headlights, and most of the harness.

The headlights are powered by a relay off the battery.

The stock 'batt' wire (the terminal of which is shown) is spliced into new wiring 4" out of frame.

Yes, the idea is to charge the battery faster, not to directly power devices.

If it is 60 I may try it out with new brushes and see what happens.

If it is 40, I think I'd prefer to upgrade.

I guess I'll toss in brushes and check for marks while it's off the motor.

thanks

When that alternator was new, there would have been a round stampeed aluminum tag behind one of the bolts that holds the case to gether. The tag was both stamped and color coded indicating the amp output of the alternator. These usually disappear duing the remanufacturing process.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Autozone will do a free test on alternators,,

you will get a printout that states the out put that the alternator achieved when tested.