I'm wrenching on what equates to a '70 225 engine and having troubles getting it timed correctly. Thus far I have Replaced the timing chain, checked valve lift to be sure there's no worn lobes, replaced the distributor, set the points, and verified TDC lines up on the balancer. The issue I have is that it wants 20* of base timing instead of the 0* called for in my manual. If I set it to zero degrees it dies immediately Simply and refuses to idle. If I set it to ten degrees it shakes wildly and threatens to die, occasionally it does. Has anyone else run into this issue? For reference, the carburetor appears to be a BBD, engine is out of an '82 Dodge PU. Thanks!

Any chance the distributor is 180 out? When you believe your at TDC, are both the intake and exhaust rockers loose?

"What equates to..." sounds like a mix and match. There were two timing tab locations over the years, with the damper marked in two different positions. Maybe you have a mixed set? The damper with the mark 5 degrees from the keyway is for the passenger side timing mark.

I've never had an engine actually run at 180 degrees out... But, yes, AFAIK I am at the top of the compression stroke with the rotor at #!. It is a mix n match. I will verify the timing mark location when I get home...

I wouldn't worry about it as long as you don't get pinging run with the most advance you can youl get smoothest running best power and fuel economy too

I have had a slant six run with the rotor 180 degrees out (actually, the lady I bought it from had done a tue up herself and managed to get the new plug wires in the right order but had forced the distributor cap on 180 degrees off).

I second the recommendation that you verify that you are at TDC on the compression stroke (watch the valves while turning the crank by hand and wiggle the rocker arms at TDC, they should both be loose).

Also, when you retard the timing you will have to increase the idle RPM and possibly the idle air/fuel mixture. If your engine is idling at 650-750 RPM with the base timing at 20 BTDC then you will definitely have to increase the curb idle speed before it will stay running at idle.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

One question, is the balancer matched with the timing cover? Different year balancers have different places where the timing tab is.
I would just start over from scratch.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

This isn't a bad idea. Get a piston stop tool and just make a new TDC mark on the damper using whatever timing tab you have.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I have verified that the TDC mark lines up with the pointer at TDC. (verified with a compression tester and a coat hanger). If I back it off to zero I cannot increase the idle enough to keep it running. The screw bottoms out before I achieve a stable idle of any rpm. I will attempt to dig further into it when I have time next weekend.

Vacuum leak.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Is your vacuum advance hose still on? You should have it disconnected and plugged at the carb.

As you are still running points I would make sure the dwell is right . Incorrect dwell has a dramatic effect on timing.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....