Thanks for letting me join. I recently purchased a 1963 Valiant. Looking for some knowledgable folks to help me along the way of fixing her up.

I bought a new carb (slant 6/ 170) but since I put the carb on, I can't seem to get her to fire up.

Old carb was leaking really bad.

Have good spark. Ran with old one but accelerator pump was leaking.

Ok new fuel filter installed, pour a bit of gas in the carb and got it running.
Brought it to a nice idol, then went to take it for a drive and halfway around the block I stepped on her to get her up to speed... It was a dogging down then sputtered and quit and won't start again.

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Douglas Hawkins

Hi, welcome to the board. Get the three books linked in this thread as quickly as you can.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Greetings, and welcome to the board!

We always love to see pictures (Photobucket and Imgur work well)!

Because the vehicle is new to you, there may be a be more than one issue (carb) contributing to your running problems. Becoming familiar with and understanding your cars systems will help you eliminate other potential problems.

Assuming the fuel in the tank is fresh and viable, and the fuel lines are not clogged and allowing fuel to flow freely to the fuel pump, and assuming the fuel pump is delivering fuel through the fuel filter to the carburetor, and assuming there is nothing clogging the needle and seat of the carb, and that the level of the float bowl is properly adjusted, and that the accelerator pump linkage is correctly metering the shot of fuel, and that the carb was correctly reassembled (if it is a rebuilt carb), it should run.

But you cannot assume any of that. So one by one, you need to verify and eliminate potential problems from your list.

None on this board knows your current level of mechanical expertise, or what manner of tool box you have at your disposal, but all are willing to thoughtfully suggest potential remedies to your hot rods running problems.

I recently upgraded to a '64 Valiant from a '63. I feel your pain and have seen the movie.

So is it a Carter or Holley Carb? One Barrel? Where did this new (?) carb come from?

Again, welcome!

It's a single bbl. I bought it from rock auto. The tank is full of fresh fuel. I drove it around a bit but the carb and water pump were leaking to bad to do much with it. I replaced the fuel filter with a clear one. Old one was plugged up. I can see when she tries to run, fuel being push up to the filter. I took the needle out and made sure it was clean.

I know some, pretty rusty, at working on them. I should receive the maintenance book in the mail today.

I know it needs a few more things as the guy before me replaced the exhaust manifold gasket but it's leaking in the area of cylinder 6.

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Douglas Hawkins

Carb is working still may need a few turns here and there. Valves adjusted with number 6 intake rod replaced, sounding pretty good (this seems to have cut down on what I thought was a pretty good size exhaust manifold leak also. Now she is still sputtering no consistent, but will try to stall when sitting at a light, any ideas.

I have replaced the plugs, wires and the vacuum line from the distributor(boy did that make a difference). (Have not replaced the distributor cap or rotor as the ones I got from Rock were the incorrect ones.

They other piece I'm not quit sure of is that she still (not always) jerks when you put it into drive.

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Douglas Hawkins

Idle rpm may be too high, and or transmission fluid & filter change needed, along with a band adjustment. Where you are experiencing carburetor and or drivability problems, idle rpm would be first on the list of suspects.

Do the simple stuff first.

Set timing to spec and correct idle speed to around 700 in Neutral; consult Factory Service Manual (FSM) for exact details.

Check transmission fluid after engine reaches operating temperature in Neutral on level ground, level should be within hatch mark zone on its dip stick. Also check fluid color and smell; if dark and burnt smelling its defiantly time for a fluid change, if it is red, hard to see on stick, it's what it should look like.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC