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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:49 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:51 pm
Posts: 16
Location: Pottstown, PA
Car Model: 1963 Plymouth Valiant
Looking to see what oil everyone recommends for my 63 Valiant. She is stock, just plan to drive here to and from car shows and a bit around town.

Not sure when here last oil change was, so I am planning on possibly tossing in STP.

Before I go ahead and get the oil I wanted to see what recommendations are out there.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:00 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13112
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
5w-30, any brand with the API seal, synthetic if you can afford it. No additives.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 11:40 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 5:56 pm
Posts: 1315
Location: TEXAS
Car Model:
10w-30 Mobil Super High Mileage

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1964 Dart GT


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 4:10 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8804
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
10w-30 regular (mineral) motor oil. no additives, API rated. No need to spend extra money on advertising gimmicks, or "upgrades" you don't need.

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65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 1473
Location: North Georgia
Car Model:
Check out bobistheoilguy.com for recommendations. I'm a member there and it's like drinking from a fire hose sometimes, but there's a lot of good information there. My personal choice for an occasionally driven vehicle is Pennzoil yellow bottle in the viscosity Mopar intended. Oh, and avoid Fram filters.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 6:22 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24522
Location: North America
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Quote:
Check out bobistheoilguy.com
...if you want to head down a rabbit hole of opinions, many without basis in fact, all put forth as gospel truth. There's definitely some good information to be had on that forum, but the signal/noise ratio is awful. And a large proportion of those on the board who do have some actual knowledge to back up their assertions are either not objective (because they're Amsoil "dealers" or have some other interest in pushing expensive boutique oils) or they're into spending their time and money geeking out on arcane details and differences and specifications that will make exactly zero practical difference in how well their (or your) car runs or how long it lasts. That's fine; I'm not in a position to judge them for it—just ask me about headlamps sometime—but to listen to their advice you'd think you absolutely must spend a fortune on specialty oils or else your car is doomed (DOOOOOOOOOOMED!) to die the day after tomorrow. Horseapples!

There's a bunch of half-informed noise about how modern oils are inadequate to prevent flat-tappet engines like ours from grinding themselves into heaps of slag. That's not correct, and it's just one of a long list of myths about every aspect of oil.

Fact is, almost any reputable-brand oil you can buy today (excepting the cheap crap at Wal-Mart, no matter whose name is on it) is vastly better than what you could get ten years ago, let alone back when our Slant-6 cars were current items. The second and fourth posts in this thread contain good recommendations. Select your viscosity according to the condition of your engine and the conditions you drive in: if the engine's old and worn and/or you drive in very hot climates, use a somewhat heavier grade. If the engine's tight and in good shape and/or you drive in cold climates, use a lighter grade. Only use a very heavy grade (SAE 30, SAE 40, 20w50, etc) on a thoroughly whipped old pony you're trying to get the last few miles out of. Use a good-quality filter and change it every time you change the oil at a reasonable interval (3000 miles is too short; 10,000 miles is too long…make your choice within that range in accord with the type of driving you do—more highway = longer interval, more stop-and-go = shorter interval).

And leave the perpetual religious quarrel over oil to those who get their jollies participating in it.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 12:05 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:57 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Newport, Ohio
Car Model:
Dan
not trying to reopen this whole thing nor debate the number of angels that can dance on a sewing needles head....just one simple question...

would it be advisable for my solid lifter motor to run a good synthetic like mobile 1 without the special zinc cam lubricant? (the motor is in excellent condition with about 10K miles since a full stock rebuild)

I am currently using Valvoline 5-30 with some zinc additive. In all my newer stuff I use mobile one and have been extremely pleased

would love to run it in my slant just unclear about the need for the cam additive

thanks dean


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 12:14 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
Stock rebuilds are fine with modern oils including synthetics and no additives are needed. I've changed most of my equipment to Mobil 1 of one variety or another.

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Joshua


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 1:28 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24522
Location: North America
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Quote:
would it be advisable for my solid lifter motor to run a good synthetic like mobile 1 without the special zinc cam lubricant?
Yes, a reputable-brand synthetic is not only fine, but also quite a bit better than conventional oil. These days I use Pennzoil Platinum, but Mobil-1 is good, too -- there is no need to spend extra money for boutique brands you have to go out of your way (or get with a "dealer") to buy. No you-add-it additive is needed or beneficial.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 2:09 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13112
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
One caveat to my "no additive" recommendation is if you have a motor that has sat and has sticky hydraulic lifters or partially clogged rocker arm oil passages, Marvel Mystery Oil works well to unstick and unclog things. But other than MMO (and only when necessary), no additives for me.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 2:28 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24522
Location: North America
Car Model:
Yes, in certain circumstances a thin cleanup additive such as Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone can be put to specific use, and in cases of very severely sludged engines that will not be taken apart for a proper cleandown there's a pain-in-the-nuts procedure that can be used in fairly good safety (or you can take shortcuts and risk your engine).

But additives claiming to "improve" one or more aspect(s) of an engine oil's performance should be left on the parts store shelf.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 5:13 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:50 am
Posts: 660
Location: Stevensville, ON
Car Model:
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

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1965 Plymouth Barracuda,
225 engine, Quadrajet, HEI, Dutra Duals, 904 Torqueflite, 2.76:1 axle, Addco front bar
Rods & Relics - Fort Erie, ON / Collector Car Tech


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2016 6:26 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:57 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Newport, Ohio
Car Model:
thank you all

this will simplify my oil changes for sure

Dean


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 2:56 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2015 4:54 am
Posts: 26
Location: Pekin, Illinois
Car Model: 1938 Plymouth 4 dr. sedan
one of the threads mentions NOT using a Fram filter on the /6. May be old discussion, but I'm new. What suggestions do you have for ones to use. Thanks

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Street rod an old car and then drive/use it. I'm a NSRA safety inspector if anyone ever wants that done to their car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 3:07 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13112
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Fleetguard, Motorcraft

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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