Should I drain the tranny before I serperate it from the engine? I'm thinking yes, but I just want to make sure.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

No need to drain the transmixer... Won't hurt, but why not do it later when the fluid's warm? You might as well pull the converter and replace the seal since you're gonna be there anyway.

"DW"

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I usually drain the torque convertor before I pull the engine -
It is mostly a precaution - If the Torque convertor hangs up on the
crank and pulls out it can dump fluid - If it says in place as it is supposed to then no fluid will leak.

Okay. I just didn't want to seperate the two under the car and come out looking like I'm auditioning for some remake of "Carrie".

How much work is involved in pulling the TC and changing the seal? Is it just a "pop out then pop back in" thing, or so I have to mind a bunch of measurements and stuff?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The Torque Converter just slides out
Getting the seal out is sometimes difficult.
And you just need to make sure the new seal goes in "square"
And the splines for BOTH shafts slide in on the Torque Convertor
when you put it back - There is a measurement you can make from the
front of the trans case to the torque converter to be sure it is seated - I believe it to be 1/2"

Ah okay. Pretty simple. I'll go ahead and pick up a seal tomorrow then. What's it listed under? Torque converter seal?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

The dimension is 1/2" and it is measured from a straight edge on the front of the case (where the engine mounts up) to the face of the lugs where the flex plate mounts on the torque convertor - this ensures the TC is fully
engaged.

The name of the seal - "Front Pump Oil Seal"

Haha, her dad even had an engine stand stashed away (this guy's got everything). So hopefully by tonight we'll have the engine pulled (or ready to pull). I assume I'm going to have to replace the main seal between the engine and the tranny, or is it reusable? I don't want anything to catch me by surprise.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Are you refering to the rear main seal on the crankshaft? I suppose they could be reusable but they are cheap enough. If you don't take it off and it's not leaking, I wouldn't mess with it. You have to take the oil pan off to remove it.

...this should be interesting.

"DW"

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Aye, that it will be. I'm just glad I'm pulling one of these and not something from a new car.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Not me.. well depends on how complicated and crowded under the hood it is. Not all newer cars, to my surprise, were nightmares. If it was a typical 4 banger aluminum block you probably don't even need a lift and can just pull it by hand, perhaps another set of hands to assist for balance. A friend of mine mentioned that he could carry his subaru 4 banger with heads on by himself.

Yeah but how many of us would touch a Subaru?

If I took a Japanese vehicle my first choice would be a Toyota.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me