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 Post subject: Exhaust manifold gasket
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 5:17 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2016 6:28 pm
Posts: 20
Car Model:
I have a 72 Dart I have been getting up and running for a daily driver but decided to sell it because I scored a SWEET 74 Dart with 54K original miles - 225 Slant 6. It is darn near perfect other than a couple of small dents and an engine issue. Even has the tape on the lines under the hood. Totally unmolested!! And everything works - even the air. Got me an electronic ignition, 3 speed wipers and a much more functional car.

I am 99% sure I have a blown exhaust manifold gasket - or at worst cracked manifold. I am a GM person (older truck restoration) so the slant six world is a little new to me.

I ordered a Remflex gasket and other than the common sense things - correct torque/soak everything before I try to remove the old bolts/take lots of pics to put all of the vacuum lines back where they belong/remove the manifolds to make sure they are true and not warped - I have a few questions and are asking you to check my logic. Yes, I have read all of manifold articles on the board and appreciate the wealth of information people are willing to share.

Logic: #1 cylinder is my problem. When you pull the plug the noise stops. Lots of soot under the manifold - which tells me that is where it is coming from. Also went over the engine with a stethoscope (broom handle) and can hear no knock/metal against metal. The fuel pump is quite loud, but that's not the sound. If it were a flex plate it would not stop when I pulled the #1 wire - and it does. All sound logic?

Questions: If I can get everything to break free and slide the manifold off and have someone hold it/use a hoist to hold it while I clean the surfaces can I reuse the new gasket if I crank it down and discover it is cracked? I know this is a short cut, but it would save me from taking EVERYTHING (remember it has air) off.

Do I just need to bite the bullet and take it all apart and check everything at once?

I also hate the thought of taking apart all of that engine that has been together since 1974. It really looks like a museum piece.

I also know those bolts from 1974 are not going to give easily.

Is it best to try to remove them when they are hot?

Yes, this will be my daily driver and no, I did not give much for it........ Almost ashamed to say how little.

Thank you in advance for your patient responses. A 70 Chevy I know what I would do, but this is a little different for me. I know my way around a 350 Chevy, but these little engines are growing on me. I love their simplicity and they seem to have lots of personality.

The darn carbs are another issue for another post. Would love Edelbrock to make a single barrel to fit these things..............


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 5:27 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
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Location: Burton BC canada
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.....................what was the question?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:40 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2015 12:40 am
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Location: Castle Rock
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Quote:
.....................what was the question?
FOUND IT!
Quote:
Do I just need to bite the bullet and take it all apart and check everything at once?

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~Nic
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:50 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7419
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Yes, your diagnosis of the manifold leaking from #1 exhaust sounds logical.

Rather than cleaning up and putting the manifold back on the old Remflex gasket, I would recommend finding out if the manifold "Stack" is flat and true. Bite the bullet and take it off. once off, you can inspect more thoroughly. It's pretty rare to have a leak between the intake and the exhaust, so if the two manifolds are aligned with each other, and there is no indication of leakage between them, don't take them apart.

The Remflex will seal up minor misalignment of the manifolds. I've only used them on engines that simply must go back together without the benefit of grinding/machining true and flat. If the manifolds are uniformly shifted from each other, split the stack and follow the instructions for re-installation with a new shim gasket between them. While apart, further inspection will be possible. It's rarely going to turn up a problem, but you never know.

If you've got flat, true surfaces, with both manifolds aligned, a simple high temp gasket will work fine. While the manifold stack is off, you can inspect the exhaust for cracks.

While some folks do re-use Remflex gaskets, I'm not in that camp. Playing with stack fasteners is not my idea of a good time. I'd say the activity is better than getting the measles, but I can think of activities I enjoy repetiiously as opposed to pulling a stack more than once on any given weekend.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:12 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jan 18, 2016 6:28 pm
Posts: 20
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Thank you to the above poster for checking my logic, your advice and patience with the long post. It is appreciated.

Will dig into it as soon as my gasket gets here - hopefully soon - and will take it all the way off and do it once and hopefully right.

Thank you to the first 2 replies and sorry for the long post and any confusion it caused.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 5:38 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:12 pm
Posts: 164
Location: Vernal Utah
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Start hosing the fasteners down with penetrating oil while you are waiting. This will give it a little time to soak in.

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Thanks Mike


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