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Manifold Stud will not tighten
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59421
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Author:  jkotis [ Wed Apr 06, 2016 6:33 am ]
Post subject:  Manifold Stud will not tighten

The intake/exhaust manifolds stud closest to the firewall on my 225 engine will not tighten down. The nut is frozen on the stud and turning the nut and stud does nothing. The stud will not come out and wiggles around in the hole. The threads in the head must be stripped. I know you can install a helicoil once the stud is drilled out. However, since the stud is loose, I suspect it would be hard to drill out the stud hole. The engine is leaking water from the area around the stud. How is the best (cheapest) way to fix this problem? :(

Author:  Nicademas [ Wed Apr 06, 2016 9:48 am ]
Post subject: 

I had an issue where i couldent get a stud to tighten. I had to drain the coolant. Cut off the nut. Remove the manifold. Then take a pipe wrench to the remaining stud to get it out. I got lucky and the threads in the head were ok. But this is just my experience.

Author:  Reed [ Wed Apr 06, 2016 10:10 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
How 'bout a stepped stud that's got bigger threads on one end and smaller on the other? Dorman #675-097. It has 3/8"-16 threads on the head side, and the stock 5/16"-24 threads on the manifold side. Overall length is a little shorter than the 675-092 standard replacement stud, but that's of no consequence. That's what I wound up successfully using at the end of a long comedy of ignorant errors and dumb mistakes* a long time ago on my '65. All you have to do is overdrill the hole straight and true. Head on engine: Not a problem. Manifold on head: Not a chance.

Use Loctite (not RTV or teflon tape) on the head-side threads, which means you need to clean the coolant and tapping oil out of the overdrilled head hole using something (alcohol or brake cleaner, e.g.) that won't leave a residue. The head threads are 7/16" deep on the 675-097, while the original-type 675-092 has 9/16" of head threads; if you're careful and mark your tap accurately with a loop of masking tape, you can make (leave) a ledge at the "bottom" of the overdrilled head hole to bolster stud seating and sealing.

*-involving a hammer drill, "EZ-out", jigsaw, tap extractor, JB-Weld, Plexiglas heater, and assorted other inappropriate tools and supplies
See the orginal thread HERE

Author:  '67 Dart 270 [ Thu Apr 07, 2016 9:34 am ]
Post subject:  stud

Definitely drain about a gallon or two of coolant, pull the manifolds so that you can see what you're doing/have access to the problem area (also I would check the other studs to see if any of them are leaking).

If you're lucky, it's the stud threads and not the block threads. Get that old stud out of there first so that you can look at the block threads. If they are bad, I would suggest using a new stud with bigger threads, tap the block for that size thread, use this sealant on your studs (best to prevent leakage that I've found):

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perm ... /7010664-P

Brian

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