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Drum Brake "Jumper Tubes"
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Author:  mswrc [ Mon Apr 25, 2016 10:38 am ]
Post subject:  Drum Brake "Jumper Tubes"
Been reading this site since last summer and able to find an answer to every question until now. So this is my first post.

I have a 1974 Dodge Dart custom, /six with 10 inch drums in front. I recently replaced the master cylinder, which of course meant replacing the wheel cylinders as well, because 3 of the four bleeder screws were rusted solid and broke. (Yes I PBBlastered them for a week before hand) The job also required replacement of some of the brake lines because they too were bad.

The problem I have now is with the short 6 inch or so lines that go from the drum cylinder to the flexible hose. Hard to explain, but in the manual they are referred to as a "jumper tube". I used parts store NiCop tubing where new tubes were required, but the connector that goes into the cylinder had a different type of flare. My solution was go get an adapter and use the provided crush washer because the adapter it wasn't deep enough to bottom out in the cylinder. Rube Goldberg, but it is working with no leaks.

So my question can I leave it as is, or should I purchase replacement "jumper tubes" from online somewhere, like because what I did is stupid/unsafe or is it alright the way it is?

Second question, has anyone just put a flexible tube directly into the cylinder eliminating the "jumper tube" all together, and is that a good or bad idea?

Any recommendations as to where to get parts, would be greatly appreciated as well.
Author:  Badvert65 [ Mon Apr 25, 2016 11:23 am ]
Post subject: 
This is the rear axle hard lines?
Author:  mswrc [ Mon Apr 25, 2016 12:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry, I was not clear. It is the front wheels.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
I didn't think the wheel cylinders used a different flare, but I am familiar with ones which use a long tube nut. Regardless you appear to have a solid, functional solution which doesn't bother me one bit.
Author:  mswrc [ Tue Apr 26, 2016 5:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the confirmation. About the flare, I believe the flare that enters into the cylinder is an ISO or Bubble flare, while the rest of the brake line system uses a "Double Flare".

What about connecting a flexible hose directly to the caliper? I did some searching around parts at Rock Auto and noticed a hose which looks like it would do just that. This is a link to what I am thinking of doing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-h19015/overview/

Any reason why I couldn't just use one of these? Has anyone out there done this? Forgive me if I'm a bit chicken when it comes to brakes.
Author:  mswrc [ Tue Apr 26, 2016 6:14 am ]
Post subject: 
So I found what looks like the actual part: http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/yfb6710

only thing is that it lists it as for 67-72 10 drums but I have a 74. Only part I find like that for a 74 states 9 inch drums ??? and it doesn't look right.

So anyone out there dealt with this and know the answers???
Author:  Joshie225 [ Tue Apr 26, 2016 8:22 am ]
Post subject: 
ISO flares are used on many European and Japanese cars. They are not common on American cars.

Looking up the front wheel cylinders I see that they are machined flat and come with a copper crush washer as though the brake hose would screw in directly. I, your car, or both am/are confused.

Here's a good article on brake plumbing:
http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html
Author:  mswrc [ Tue Apr 26, 2016 9:13 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the article, I will read it tonight.

Well, I'm a little confused as well. Basically I'm handy enough to fix most things, I just don't have the experience/knowledge about what is the best solution. Well no experience in the last 25 years. When I owned my Valiant and Dart in the early 80s, I just went to the part store and said, "I need one of these," and held up the part.
Author:  Killer6 [ Sun May 01, 2016 12:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just for the next time, but you should never have to go bleed the wheels
just changing the master cyl., ever. Bench bleed w/plugs in the ports in a
vise,or after you mount it, then let it drip a bit after removing the plugs.
hook up the lines and bleed it at the lines.You should never get air down the
lines to have to do any more than that.
Author:  Killer6 [ Sun May 01, 2016 12:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
So I found what looks like the actual part: http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/yfb6710

only thing is that it lists it as for 67-72 10 drums but I have a 74. Only part I find like that for a 74 states 9 inch drums ??? and it doesn't look right.

So anyone out there dealt with this and know the answers???
I'm not an options expert, but I believe a std. /6 would've came w/9"drums
and the only upgrade was to discs/10" rear drums from '73 and up? If so,
you've got '72 and down 10" frts. on your ride.
Author:  wjajr [ Sun May 01, 2016 1:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you look up 74 Dart at Rock Auto they list 9" front shoe, 10" front shoe, and 10" front disk with 10" rear shoe.

Both 9" & 10" rear drums.

So it looks like the car could be equipped with front & rear 9" drums; front and rear 10" drums; and front 10" disk with rear 9" or 10" rear drum brakes.
Author:  mswrc [ Sun May 01, 2016 2:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mine is 10 inch drums front 9 inch drums rear. Whether it came that way from the factory or not I can not say.

One thing to add, my son has a '73 Valiant 198, base model, and his has 10 inch front 9 inch rear too, with the exact same "jumper tubes" on the front.

For what it's worth, I went ahead and ordered hoses for earlier B and larger body cars that had 10 inch drums, DORMAN H73279, from Rock Auto. I found that on those models, Mopar did not have "jumper tubes", so am going to give these a try since the threads and fit seem to be the same.

Once I get them installed, I will post how it went, in case someone in the future has a similar question.
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