So after talking with a couple people on here about the cam I originally went with, they advised against it.


What is a good street cam with noticeable idle? I am running a 4 barrel Offy with 500 EB, Headers, .100 off of the head, stock TC and gears.

The stock torque converter and your desire for a "noticeable" idle are at odds with one another. If you get that noticeable idle you're likely to hate driving the car for the lack of low speed performance. I wouldn't change the cam without changing the converter unless it was a very short duration cam and then you don't get your desired idle.

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Joshua

Ok thank you!

What is a better than stock cam with good street manners then without changing TC?

see this thread


http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... light=rv10


and this thread has info on street hydraulic cams


http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... rpm+torque

I second the RV10 recommendation. I also like the Oregon Cam Grinding #819 as an intake lobe and the #818 for the exhaust on 108° lobe separation. This would give a short seat timing of 248/240° with 219/212° at .050" and .437/.431" gross lift. This is a couple steps up from stock and would take advantage of the raised compression ratio without killing the bottom end torque and making the car a slug at stop lights. I know you had .100" taken off the head, but it is a very good idea to measure deck height and combustion chamber size in order to determine the true static compression ratio.

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Joshua

The 819 lobe is what I have in my truck on both intake and exhaust. I like it very much. Will see what it runs in the 1/4 in about 3 weeks.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

When I last road raced my 225 powered Dart it had the Oregon 819 cam with a home ported big valve (1.78/1.45") head and .100" milled off both the head and block. The compression ratio was probably near 10.5:1 and I ran it on 100 octane low lead av-gas. It would pull to 5800 RPM. I didn't have the oiling system up to snuff and ventilated the block when a rod bearing got hot and the rod failed.

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Joshua

With the stock converter and gears, and your engine setup, I like either the 819 on both I+E or the 819/818 as Josh says. Those cams will be about as big as you can go and still use the stock converter. I don't see the RV10 specs in those threads, but as I recall it is very close to stock, in my book. Degree the cam at 100-102 centerline.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Spend the money for a converter first and build your motor later. A stock motor with a loose converter will run a whole lot better than a cammed up motor with a stock converter.

Build from the back to the front for happiness.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

That's the best advice I've heard all day...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Love it!

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Joshua

That is why I always put a new tailpipe on all my vehicles 1st!!

And I am running a stock convertor on my truck with the 819 cam.

Rick

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yeah, but you are special.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Ding!