Would a really long nut help with access?
If so, you could use standoff's or couplers instead of nuts.....
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| Allen-head manifold hold-down fasteners??? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59585 |
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| Author: | billdedman [ Mon May 02, 2016 11:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Allen-head manifold hold-down fasteners??? |
My 225 engine has a homemade, 16-gauge, tubing header instead of a cast iron manifold and an aluminum (Aussiespeed) intake manifold. This has made its installation/removal, a time consuming, frustrating, process. I am wondering "what if" I replaced all of the studs that are, now, threaded so that half-inch nuts can be screwed onto them, with Allen-Head capscrews, screwed into the head, but still used the original washers and triangular washers, what would be the result. The reason I would like to do this is, it is nearly impossible to get any kind of a wrench or extension/socket onto several of the half-inch nuts that are screwed onto the studs, due to the lack of header pipe clearance. It is a homemade header (turbo-mount) and, when it was being built, wrench-clearance was never a consideration... Allen wrenches are thin and will go in where a regular wrench or socket/extension, won't fit. Is it worth a try? Any advice/information will be appreciated! Bill. in Conway, Arkansas |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Tue May 03, 2016 1:55 am ] |
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The problem with that is then you'll be fighting the length of the screw which will probably be an even bigger issue. Also those studs have water in back of them, rusting them on pretty tight. Whenever I removed studs from a head double nutting was a risky proposition and had to resort to a stud puller. I could imagine a small allen head stripping out easily. |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Tue May 03, 2016 3:17 am ] |
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Would a really long nut help with access? If so, you could use standoff's or couplers instead of nuts.....
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| Author: | Will [ Tue May 03, 2016 3:49 am ] |
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Most allen heads are hardened, so if one snaps off a trip to the EDM is in the future. Ask me how I know...LOL Will |
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| Author: | slantzilla [ Tue May 03, 2016 8:35 am ] |
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I have found that a 1/4" drive flex socket with 12 and 18" extensions are most helpful. Next time you have the header off can you heat the areas around the mounting studs and dimple them in to get more clearance? I think you would find that having all socket head bolts would suck. 
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Tue May 03, 2016 8:55 am ] |
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I just pulled the manifolds from a 225 in which the studs were replaced by bolts. The engine had been together about 2 years and had clean green coolant. I swear to you if they hadn't been Grade 8 bolts that 2 or 3 of them would have snapped. I'm now going to search the board for the Dorman replacement stud part number. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Tue May 03, 2016 9:50 am ] |
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I usually take pains to make sure the studs are only as long as needed for engaging all threads of the nuts (maybe even not the last thread). This cuts down on lots of hassles with wrenches, sockets, fitment... I like Dennis' statement and I also use flex/wobble extensions and sometimes 1/4" drive, or I have modified (ground down) 1/2" open end wrenches to fit them. Dimpling the headers next time they're off is a great idea too. Lou |
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| Author: | billdedman [ Tue May 03, 2016 12:33 pm ] |
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Thanks tp all.... it's ALL good adcice and I'm going to take it!!! This board is irreplaceable!  Bill |
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