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| Proper wiring methods, and how not to make a kilowatt drain https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59649 |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon May 16, 2016 6:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | Proper wiring methods, and how not to make a kilowatt drain |
Wire harness modification to accommodate a home built oak pick-up body c. 1995 found under a certain off brand PU truck in my possession; I beg your indulgence on this as it could happen to a Ram near you. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/I%20H%20Tuck/001_zpsd3nebskg.jpg[/img] Wire harness at left rear wheel between wheel and bumper: Dangling black conductor is discontinued back-up light circuit to feed nonexistent back up light post wood body conversion. No expense spared best of the best 3M splitter/connectors were utilized. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/I%20H%20Tuck/002_zps1zjjhlio.jpg[/img] A few feet down line to left rear stop/tail lamp holder: More 3M engineering, coupled with American Beer (formerly Budweiser)engineered kilowatt drain utilizing a stamped steel “C†clamp to vintage steep & Tow bumper support strut. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/I%20H%20Tuck/006_zpsisyklo3g.jpg[/img] Dangling festooned loom method utilized between terminated factory wire harness, and left rear lamp holder. [img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/I%20H%20Tuck/003_zpscwxxe1rj.jpg[/img] Ditto for right side; under strut grounding method still conducting electrons back to battery negative terminal after over 20 years of corrosion build-up. I’m in the process of cleaning up this mess using soldered splices protected from weather and vibrations using two stepped sleeves of heat shrink long enough to bridge soldered splice. Connection to lamp holder conductors with a bi conductor off-set connector (can’t recall its name) like one finds at distributor, and a 10 gage ground loop tied to battery picking up all grounds rear of fire wall extending to right lamp holder. Provisions added to power new license plate and back-up lights have been added back. Unfortunately both stamped steel “C†clamps were unusable and have been scrapped in favor of more weather tight spade connector to lamp holder bodies. |
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| Author: | coconuteater64 [ Mon May 16, 2016 7:47 am ] |
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Yikes!  I worked on a coworker's Mazda pickup after work one evening. when he turned on his headlights the tail lights went off, and when he put on the brakes, his headlights went off. Long story short, ever see someone wire a truck using a trailer brake light wiring kit? About all I could do to unintercourse the intercoursed-up wiring was add a ground wire. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon May 16, 2016 9:18 am ] |
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Hey! I think the same outfit that wired your truck also did the the trailer connector wiring on my 76 D100! |
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| Author: | sandy in BC [ Mon May 16, 2016 4:26 pm ] |
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I didnt think you were allowed to say "trailer connector wiring" on this board. In this culture its considerd blasphomy....ok swearing |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue May 17, 2016 7:02 am ] |
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There is one little glitch I have yet to sort out, one can activate the directional signals with the ignition in off position as well as in the on position. I'll leave that for another day as I'm tired of tinkering with this thing. Now to do a little sanding for a fresh coat of spar urethane on the body; it's the closes thing I'll come to a vintage Christ-Craft. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue May 17, 2016 9:00 am ] |
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Quote: I didnt think you were allowed to say "trailer connector wiring" on this board.
Let's just say they probably owned stock in 3M's scotch-lock department.
In this culture its considerd blasphomy....ok swearing |
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