So my rad is done, cores are collapsed inside. re core is around 300 $, but i'd rather get something with a bit bigger core, mine is tinny. I saw on ebay you can get a rad for 200$ 3 row, aluminum, looks pretty good. Only issue is, my bottom rad hose comes out on the wrong side. I've got a 170 automatic 1964 valiant. my bottom hose is on the passenger side, almost every rad out there is the driver's side. any idea why this is? I'm thinking it shouldn't be to hard to re route the rad hose...

A V-8 thing....

Learned a lesson recently, when I had to replace a rad core. Two rows can actually be better'n three. Seems two wider tubes can have more total surface area than three narrower ones.

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dang so i'm gonna have to run a custom rad hose across then...
so buy a 2 row then eh?

just need to make sure everything will fit with the fan in there still. anybody run into fan clearance issues when putting a bigger(thicker core) rad in?

A brand new off the shelf radiator to drop in and hook right up? No. Custom-made to fit? Yep, see here. Or you can toss in one of the universal cheapies or ready-made V8 items and use flex hoses. Looks like crud but it'll cool the engine fine for awhile until the Chinese "quality" catches up with you.
(pay now or pay now and later, etc)

For radiator row count discussion see here.

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here ya go.

the 3 row is better than the 2 row . the 3 row high efficiency is better than the std 3 row . the multi pass 3 row is best but reqires a high flow water pump.

http://www.coolcraft.com/radiators/plym ... ?model=135

you may need a better fan with any of these.

if you dont have a shroud, get one.

run a high flow t stat with bigger rads also.

Note,
The 63 - 64 A-Body has a smaller radiator opening... it only takes the 19 inch core.
In 65, Mopar increased the opening size so the vehicle could also use the 22 inch. ( the 19 inch unit had a wider side flange, needed to "bridge" the wider opening)

Bottom-line: wider radiators can be used in a 64 but you will need to do some metal cutting & drilling in order to mount it.
DD

I took a V8 radiator, had it re-cored to a 3 core, removed the LH lower V8 hose nipple and added a proper slant lower hose nipple to where it would be if a 22 inch radiator had been offer in a slant flavor in 65/66. Did this for my 65 wagon, currently under construction. I can post pics if anyone wants to see the mod.

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87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

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I would second Dan's comment on Chinese made aluminum rads. They look great, but I've had them fail on my car (twice). I believe that they need cushion, flex built into the system, i.e. mount with firm foam or rubber cushion between radiator and mounting surface, otherwise they spring leaks, they are too stiff. Might be the issue, or might be they're just junk and the aforementioned cushion wouldn't have helped (I was just postulating, as I've read other forums that say aluminum rads must be cushion mounted).

I finally got lucky and found a NOS mopar radiator on ebay for $175. It had a pinhole in the top tank from an impact, but otherwise was like new. Soldered the pinhole and no problems since.

Mine is a '67, so 22" opening, take note of DD's comment, your opening is smaller.

brian

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For my 63 Dart I got a Champion Radiator, and the port was on the wrong side. So I did



Then learned from Champion, had I called them and said I needed it on the passenger side, they would have done it, same price. But the way I did that flex hose off the water pump, a connector, and then the elbow, it worked fine.

I pulled a radiator from a 1968 Dart, ten years ago... it's the oversized one, from the junkyard, probably sat there since the ninety's ...I think I paid about 15$ or 20$ at the time for the radiator that will work on it's 50th Anniversary. To bad corporations are buying up all the manufacturing...replace rather than fix because build quality is now becoming $#!+ to begin with...America started this trend.

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