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| Attempting to revive a 225 in an a100 https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60111 |
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| Author: | Glassaholic [ Fri Sep 02, 2016 4:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Attempting to revive a 225 in an a100 |
Hello! Ive been in the process of reviving the slant six in a 1967 dodge a100 and have hit a serious wall, so I'm sorry in advance for the long post!!! When I bought it(as a donor for my a108) the seller miraculously got it to start up after who knows how long sitting in a warehouse. It sounded ok, but I only have one ear so take that as you will! Over the next few months I started it myself a few times using starter fluid and it puffed a bit of bluish smoke from the tailpipe a bit but otherwise never drove it as there were no brakes. The last start was about a year ago, then a month ago I decided to get it running, so I started by putting 5 gallons of fresh gas in (maybe 3-5 old gallons still in tank, replaced the points/condenser, cap/rotor, pcv, oil/filter, fuel filter... Nothing, just turning. So I took the valve cover off, and found that the inside of the cover totally rusted and disintegrated into the head and three valves were stuck open. So I contacted a local mopar enthusiast for a used head which got me a great looking head from 1975. I know it's a 75/76 because it was an odd casting number not on the usual lists (I'll take the cover off tomorrow and get that number for you guys) I was expecting to find totaled pistons and grooved cylinders from years of abuse, but they were both in great condition! A bit of soot came right off the pistons and the cylinders were already shiny and bright Everything turned perfectly smooth by hand so I went ahead with the head replacement alone. I put the manifolds on the head before putting the head on the block using felpro gaskets. The head went on smooth, but I hurt my back torquing the bolts! A few minutes later it was running, but was super lean and couldn't be adjusted properly. Found three separate vacuum leaks in the seal between the intake and the head, so i tried retorquing a few times before removing and ordering a remflex gasket set. Placed on a ground surface, the manifolds seemed pretty straight, maybe .010 off the table in the middle. The remflex sealed all the intake leaks but the accelerator pump on the carb wasn't functioning at all, so after a fruitless rebuild replaced the carb with a rebuilt 1920 by tomco I believe. Now it starts up with a bit of fluid, runs too fast at idle, smooths out as it warms up, but smokes like a chimney! Bluish whitish smoke that smells terrible, starts as soon as the engine fires and billows out like crazy with each push of the pedal... I checked the oil that has maybe 20-30 minutes of runtime, it was super black and milky with water. I changed the oil and filter, ran it again for maybe 5 minutes and again it's milky and dark! I also checked the head bolts and two moved about 1/8" turn before the wrench clicked but the rest were tight. Those two were not near each other Could it be an issue with the '75 head on a '67 block? I feel like I'm further away than I began! I'm guessing the next step is to check compression as well as a leak down test, but where is the water coming from?! I'm clearly doing it wrong, but at this point have no idea what! Again sorry for the super long post, just not sure what info is useful in this situation! |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The old gas should have been removed from the tank. When you burn that varnish you can stick valves open, stick rings and even stick the pistons. The block may be cracked. I had a block crack between 2 cylinders. With the block empty you could see a tiny line of rust at the bottom of the cylinders. I would drain the oil and pressurize the cooling system to see if water comes out of the oil pan. It's not the newer head. They interchange fine. |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Fri Sep 02, 2016 7:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | gas |
I agree with Joshua on the gas, that old gas should have been removed and the tank cleaned with it being that old. Once you have a verified clean fuel source, if it's still billowing smoke, then maybe you have bad rings or something, but it could be the gas has broken down and is full of varnish and causing all that smoke. Disconnect the fuel line at the inlet of the fuel filter and pour the gas out of the filter into a clear glass container - see water and/or gunk? Is the gas highly colored? Brian |
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| Author: | Glassaholic [ Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thank you both! I just drained the oil and pressurized the cooling system... I found a lot of leaks all around the water pump and the hoses, but there was no water coming out of the oil pan. I'm pulling the radiator now to get to the water pump since clearly that seal needs replacing. I'll replace the pump too while I'm at it. Maybe I'll see something else while I'm around there? Next I'll pull the tank, I'm starting the cleaning process in my spare tank now to install in a few days, I had a feeling the last bit I couldn't get to would haunt me... A bit of black gunk is in the new filter, and the fuel is definitely yellow but not that much darker than fresh. I'll try running it off a plastic tank once this pump is replaced if the tank isn't totally clean! |
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| Author: | Glassaholic [ Sat Sep 17, 2016 8:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
So figured I should update with where I'm at... I tried a lot of things, and finally tore the engine back down for new rings and pistons. It sounded great, but wouldn't stop smoking! I finally figured out that it wasn't actually leaking coolant into the engine at all, it was just leaking so much oil the smoke was white. The cylinders look great and the bearings barely look worn, so I'm doing a simple rebuild without even removing it from the van. Just a hone and fresh Pistons, rings, and bearings. Not messing with the cam. The head is at the machinists getting new valve guides and springs currently and should have it all back together soon. I'm out of town next week so waiting for machining and parts won't be too hard. |
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