this one is high speed or main jet circuit ,it is a clean out plug. Carter had a wegde shaped tool to remove these, Small screw driver normally works. Leave alone for now. Whats the carb not doing right?
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| Carter BBS rebuild question https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60143 |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 12:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | Carter BBS rebuild question |
Hello people of the internet, I'm pleased to have found you! Tons of great info here, thanks in advance to all the helpful people. SO: rebuilding my Carter BBS on my '67 D100. I got an Echlin kit at Napa. I've rebuilt this carb before, but feel like I've had ok results (not really satisfying). Maybe this time.... 1) The kit comes with two aluminum plugs. I found the plug that I assume these are meant to replace (bottom of the bowl, facing the front of carb), but don't know the best method for dealing with it. Is this a cleanout plug, or something I should avoid? 2) Something is rattling around in the bowl assembly... after I removed everything. Can't see a way to dig further (unless that's where the aluminum plug comes into play). In the rebuild kit there are 2 ball bearings, I know one goes under the accelerator pump plunger, is there supposed to be another one knocking around? 3) The kit of course doesn't come with jets or step-up rod, are these necessary to replace? And if so, where do I get them? Thanks again. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:10 am ] |
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http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55801 carb manual |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:28 am ] |
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this one is high speed or main jet circuit ,it is a clean out plug. Carter had a wegde shaped tool to remove these, Small screw driver normally works. Leave alone for now. Whats the carb not doing right?
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:46 am ] |
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Another method is very small tap and die, that will add a twisting and pulling effect. Some times there too deep for screw driver to work. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 8:47 am ] |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 9:07 am ] |
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The second ball and plug is for accelerating pump discharge check ball,see page 4 in that manual. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Sat Sep 10, 2016 12:20 pm ] |
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Pictures http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/Dougl ... page=1[url][/url] The first 12 pictures are bbs disregard others |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Sun Sep 11, 2016 11:17 pm ] |
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Thanks matv91 for the excellent help! There's no major red flags (I think) with the carb, other than a persistent gas dribble. Seems to emanate from the vent at accelerator pump. I've rebuilt this carb before and put everything at specs (reasonably, I've also been operating without tach assistance and a bare minimum of knowledge, so there's that...), I'm not sure if the dribble is a common thing or if I need to tweak something past the specs...? Also, I have a tank recondition in my future, there's definitely rust gunk in the float bowl. I'm assuming some of that got in the interior of the carb, which is why I ask about the plug. Thanks again for the responses and pictures - I'll update with progress. |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Wed Sep 14, 2016 10:24 pm ] |
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Ok, update: cleaned it up, put everything together again. Didn't mess with the aluminum plugs. I couldn't get to the accelerator pump discharge check ball - could hear it moving around, but couldn't understand how to access it (presumably behind a plug?). It's back on the truck, it runs about as good as before, but I feel like I couldn't really set it up properly. For one thing, the fast idle: all the instructions (I have 3 different versions) show a stepped cam, however mine is a smooth cam with an index mark. I couldn't figure out how to set the fast idle. Any ideas? Also setting curb idle: instructions say screw idle mix in all the way, then out 1 - 2 turns. Then turn throttle speed screw clockwise until it just touches the stop in casting, then turn in one full turn - I couldn't understand this, as there was no casting contacting the throttle stop. So couldn't tell where to set it. Also, the idle mix screw had to be all the way in to keep from dying - I basically had to adjust the throttle stop in to keep it running. I ended up at around 600rpm idle, but feel that it's probably running rich? Any thoughts? Thanks again. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:43 am ] |
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The pump discharge ball is behind a plug (flush with the top surface of the main body casting) on some BBSs, but the plug isn't really needed. Setting the idle screw some specific number of turns out is not the right way to adjust the idle mixture. This procedure gets you much closer to accuracy. |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:08 pm ] |
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Thanks for the suggestions Dan, I'll give it another shot. Re: the plug, you think it's ok to pull it and leave it open? And is that plug on the front of the float bowl? I have a cross section of the accelerator pump circuit, but it's unclear to me where it is. Thanks for taking the time! Cheers - Jason |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:35 pm ] |
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Quote: Thanks for the suggestions Dan, I'll give it another shot.
I don't really see where you need to, if the accelerator pump is working properly.Quote: Re: the plug, you think it's ok to pull it and leave it open?
Yes, but again, if the pump's working, might as well leave it be.Quote: And is that plug on the front of the float bowl?
No. Top gasket surface of main body, on the side of the carb that's furthest from the engine block when the carb's installed.
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| Author: | the mothership [ Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:19 pm ] |
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Righto, thanks Dan, I'm always willing to listen when I'm told to NOT do something.... Cheers - Jason |
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