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| Steering knuckle plug question https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60194 |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Tue Sep 20, 2016 12:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Steering knuckle plug question |
Hey there - I'm tackling some deferred maintenance on my 67 D100, and figured I'd make sure my steering components don't fall off. I was greasing the fittings on the steering knuckle and saw the plug on top just sitting up there, not attached. The service manual mentions "staking" the plug to install it - can someone explain this process to me? Is it possible to do so without removing the wheel and brake hub? While I'm at it, I'd appreciate any advice on diagnosing potential steering problems - ie: how do I determine if a component is ready for service? I've had the Mothership for 17 years, it's always had an 'old truck' looseness in the steering - I've assumed that's pretty standard, but would love some direction on knowing when it's time to fix something. Thanks for your help - Jason |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: I was greasing the fittings on the steering knuckle and saw the plug on top just sitting up there, not attached.
I assume you have king pins having never looked under a 67 D100, and they are worn where other new front end parts have not solved the sloppy steering problem.There are generally two slightly domed steel slugs a wee bit smaller in diameter than the king pin that act as covers both bottom and top of king pin within steering knuckle to trap grease and repel the elements. Those plugs are set into place by gently taping with a hammer flattening dome, than using a cold chisel or prick punch deforming the knuckle's hole the slug is in just enough to keep it in place when greasing king pin. These slugs are included in a king pin rebuild kit. See Rock Auto for a selection of kits under "Steering". Keep in mind that your axel will need 4 new bushings installed (included in kit),and those bushing lined reamed to accept the new king pin, a job for a machine shop, or truck suspension service place; don't be surprised if several truck shops aren't equipped to work on these small king pin axels. If you were able to find a truck service shop that can work on less than 1" dia king pin axels, that can perform the repair with axel in truck. Last spring I had this very king pin rebuild performed on my 67 IH 3/4 ton pick-up. Jack up one side of axel unweighting wheel & tire enough to be able to lift with a lever and fulcrum, and while doing so look for play between axel and knuckle. Removing tire may make inspection easer if you are solo. If play is found rebuild axel, once stake or jamb pin securing king pin is removed you will find the assembly to be a flopping mess. I had to remove axel at which time discovered broken lower leaf. While you are at it replace leaf spring bushings, this will eliminate a lot of slop you feel in steering in addition to king pin slop. I had to remove my axel and cart it off to a machine shop to be rebuilt. At which time I installed new spring bushings, leaf spring required serviced as bottom leaf was broken needing a new leaf which I got from Spring n things, and new "U" bolts installed sourced locally at a big rig truck supply place for about six bucks a pop, and new center bolts that holds spring pack together and locates spring on axel. It all went together without any problems. |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Sun Oct 02, 2016 7:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hey thanks tons wjajr, this is a lot of helpful info! Questions: You say the new bushings need to be reamed to accept the new king pin, do you mean the knuckle need to be sized to fit the new bushings? Rock auto has a variety of options, do you have a recommendation on nylon vs. metal bushings? Slug - when this is peened on, and I eventually squirt some new grease in that fitting, I assume it will pop off again? To lube that joint, do I need to squirt/pop and scoop out the old stuff to make room for the new? (I'm a bit foggy on this whole grease thing, clearly) Thanks again - Jason |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Oct 03, 2016 2:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
First test for play at between king pin, axel, and knuckle, if found plan on replacing king pins. When replacing pins, the old bushings that reside in upper and lower arms of knuckle have to be removed, and new pressed in. Than machine shop reames to within 0.01" or so over diameter of the king pin. This can't be done under the old shade tree at home with success. The shop will do all this, all you have to do is lug it over to shop, and reinstall axel once rebuilt. Those domed caps or slugs are peened down to tighten them into the space left between end of king pin, and sometimes additional dimpling of rim of knuckle with a prick punch is needed fully lock it in place so grease wont blow it off. As to which kit to use, it depends on which axel you have. You will need to identify axel and probably FSM will help with that. I often go with the part that has the little red hart. |
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| Author: | the mothership [ Mon Oct 03, 2016 5:01 pm ] |
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Excellent, thanks for the help! Upgrading the brakes right now, next will be the steering stuff. Fingers crossed! |
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| Author: | bboogieart [ Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:15 pm ] |
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I had written a whole dialog on how to remove king pins. Then I noticed the date after I posted it. So instead, I am wanting to know how this went for you. It has been decades since I had to service a straight axle. I hope it all went well and you no longer believe... quote " 'old truck' looseness in the steering - I've assumed that's pretty standard." But rather find other motorists wondering what that silly grin on your face is all about. 
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