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| Ongoing super six bracket drama https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60300 |
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| Author: | shadango [ Wed Oct 12, 2016 5:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | Ongoing super six bracket drama |
So in my seemingly never ending search to find the brackets and air cleaner I need for my supersix conversion, I came across a fellow who has this  It is missing a part of two....worth buying for 25 bucks ? Are the other parts impossible to find seperately? |
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| Author: | Pompis [ Wed Oct 12, 2016 11:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If you have some fabrication skill then I think you should buy it. I only had pictures and a nice member (thanks Reed) who gave some measurements so I could fabricate my own Super 6 linkage. I had a modified 1 bbl kickdown linkage that worked OK but after I fabricated my own copy of the whole Super 6 set up my Valiant shifts great know. I reused the 1 bbl lever at the trans and the 1 bbl long round bar thingy. The 1 bbl lever at trans is to long since the Super 6 lever should be 2.4" and it is indexed at an angle towards the front of the car. Almost at the bottom there is a pictures and measurments at the Super 6 kickdown lever and some others. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 607250724f I can help you with pictures if you want. I didn't want the cable set up since it is ugly and also need some fabrication. I'm sure after I have corrected the kickdown lever lenght at the trans it should works like the factory Super 6. The Mopar kickdown (throttle pressure) set up should work like this, if the carburetor throttle cable moves 1" the kickdown lever should move 1" it's a 1:1 ratio. Another thing to know about the kickdown lever at trans is that it have a large "sweep" that it moves but a third (rough estimate) of the sweep is doing nothing until it touches the kickdown valve in the valvebody. When you fabricate the Super 6 and other kickdown set ups it is good to know that you should have the whole movement/sweep from when the kickdown lever touches the kickdown valve until it bottoms. You should not have the play/sweep when the kickdown lever is in the air doing nothing. |
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| Author: | shadango [ Wed Oct 12, 2016 2:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I am figuring on using the bouchillon setup for the KD..... But I just ran into another question..... IS the trams lever itself required to be changed with the Bouchillon setup? Or just with the stock rod? Wow...this is getting complex. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Oct 12, 2016 3:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The bracket in that picture is probably the hardest part to find and, personally, I would pay the $25 to get it. The rest of the pieces are fairly easy to fabricate or purchase. Use a cable-style kickdown linkage and fabricate the linkage between the carb and that pivot mount piece. |
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| Author: | shadango [ Thu Oct 13, 2016 5:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: The bracket in that picture is probably the hardest part to find and, personally, I would pay the $25 to get it. The rest of the pieces are fairly easy to fabricate or purchase. Use a cable-style kickdown linkage and fabricate the linkage between the carb and that pivot mount piece.
Thanks guys.Reed, with the cable kick down (Bouchillon) is the "stud and nut kit" required? It looks like $16 for a stud and a nut.......pricey unless its critical The kit is pricey enough. LOL And I still wonder if I need a "super six" trans lever or if that is taken care of in the Bouchillon kit? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Thu Oct 13, 2016 7:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have never used or even seen the Bouchillon it, so I can't say what is or is not needed. Have you considered the GEARHEAD option? I don't think you NEED a Super Six trans lever, although it is preferred. The critical thing is that the trans lever is adjusted so that it is all the way towards the rear of the vehicle when the throttle is fully opened. |
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| Author: | shadango [ Thu Oct 13, 2016 7:27 am ] |
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Quote: I have never used or even seen the Bouchillon it, so I can't say what is or is not needed. Have you considered the GEARHEAD option?
I actually have a Lokar kit on my barracuda (the gearhead kit is the same deal)........it works and has been fine for 6 years on a sunny day cruiser but I do recall it was a a little figgety to get together......and from what I understand the Bouchillon kit, though pricier, is more complete and is super easy to set and forget....since its a copy of OEM style hookups, I think it might be a better choice for a daily driver.....I don't think you NEED a Super Six trans lever, although it is preferred. The critical thing is that the trans lever is adjusted so that it is all the way towards the rear of the vehicle when the throttle is fully opened. By the time I buy the parts needed for either way, its about the same money because you have to use the Lokar accelerator kit with the kickdown kit....I think about $150 or so. With the Bouchillon I am using the stock style acclerator stuff and their kit. I had to buy the v8 cable for $26 and the bouchillon stuff is like $165 |
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| Author: | '67 Dart 270 [ Thu Oct 13, 2016 8:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Gearhead |
i agree, the Gearhead option that Reed suggested appears to be identical to the Lokar kit and way less expensive. Thanks Reed. brian |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Oct 14, 2016 5:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I installed a Bouillon kit on my Holley 390 which comes out of the box rigged for Ford application which required a Chrysler adapter bracket and studs which both accelerator and kick down cables are connected. You should locate a Chrysler kick down conversion bracket that bolts up to your brand carb to achieve the correct travel required to operate the kick down lever travel on transmission for optimal transmission performance. Jegs/Summit etc. have these brackets and studs. Keep in mind that travel distance throttle cable moves is different than kick down distance, and factory adapter bracket eliminated trial and error of fabing some contraption. As mentioned earlier, Bouchillon bracket and all the trimmings are easily installed, factory stile kick down or rather throttle pressure cable, snaps in place on to factory stile studs, and is easily adjusted for correct shift points as long as the proper geometry is adhered to. |
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