Yes I am starting yet one more thread about my electrical fun.

On the 66 dart, installed the HEI set up as detailed in the SLant 6 instructions. Junkyard and all.

Got a NOS dizzy from the suggested Old Car Part guy. Also got a new VR128 volt reg.

After starting it up and setting initial timing, I am getting a serious pulse/dim of all lighting. It gets real bad at idle, like hard to see my instruments at night. But when driving the lights get brighter. I also noted that if I park, and rev the engine (and hold it) upto 3000rpm or so, the headlights will be bright, and then pulse in and out almost in perfect time irregardless of the RPMS staying steady.

I have done the tests for ground etc... the voltage reading is very sporadic at idle with no load. 13 - 14.9. This was not an issue prior to the HEI conversion, so I have to think it is related.
I have the ground for the Module and the ground for the relay tied together at the radiator support which is a solid ground, bare metal.

I have read other threads that says maybe to run a ground wire from the VR flange, to the battery terminal to the Alternator body? Would that effect my lighting issues?

I also have a new 55a alternator (single field) which seems to pass all the tests at the shop.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

All ground potential at each device, HEI, VR, alternator have to be the same. Connect these three devices with a ground loop that runs back to negative battery terminal.

Next you may have to disconnect factory blue wire & run a jumper wire over to starter relay stud (it is connected by a short wire to + battery post) from voltage regulator's top connection which a blue wire is now connected to. This jumper will allow the VR to see battery voltage with no voltage drop. This should smooth out any funny voltage variations occurring in other portions of wire harness when lights and other high draw devices are in use due to voltage drop.

Also make sure battery connections, ground connections between battery and engine block, engine to fire wall are clean and tight.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ok so i comnected the grounds it made no difference. I tried the jumper from vr to starter relay, made a small difference, but also began to slowly drain my battery. I dont thnk that is right.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

It would, sorry, I meant it to run a test to see if it made any difference. In order to keep that remote sensing jumper in place it would have to be activated by a relay triggered by a circuit only energized when key is in "Run position"; this is how I have wired my car.

Where you corrected ground path and were reading voltage directly from battery, and voltage still rolled up and down I would suspect alternator and or voltage regulator. Take both VR and Alt to parts store or automotive electrical rebuild place and have both tested. Just because you have a new part just out of the box don't mean its working correctly these days.

Several years ago I installed an electronic vr1001 silver box, it would occasionally throttle alternator to full output, almost fried my harness. Damn thing was defective 60+ bucks down the drain. Still using the old mechanical VR that was in use when I got the car.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ah ha, that makes more sense. I already have a Relay for my HEI, can I use it , or do I need a separate Relay for the ignition? If that is the case, can you give me any info on how to go about wiring the Relay into the Jumper?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

You can trigger the VR relay with the same trigger used for the HEI using a new circuit aka the jumper. So, in other words you will have two relays triggered by same source each controlling separate circuits.

Electrical demand of trigger (85 & 86 pins) for pull in coil is very small.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Good tips. What do you think it means when inner lights are pulsing at idle, but when I turn on headlights the pulsing stops? I have the headlights on a relay.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

The amp load is high enough that the voltage regulator isn't turning on and off, but is just on.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Can I ask another question about this. When you disconnect blue wire, and then do a jumper from VR IGN directly to the starter relay, is the current for the ignition switch now being bypassed? Or does current still flow in/out of the bulkhead ignition wires? Meaning is current still flowing to the actual ignition switch?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

Yup, jumper from starter relay stud to VR Ing terminal bypasses all the voltage drop between said stud on starter relay through bulkhead connector to ignition switch.


Take a look see at MADD site: http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... sing.shtml

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

And this is still the case even if I have already done the ammeter bypass where I cut Alt wires in/out at bulkhead and rerouted?

so by doing a relay for ignition, I would then be bypassing the new wire that I made for the ammeter bypass?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

You need to sketch out on paper what changes you made to factory harness I relation to factory harness, than ponder those alterations, and draw in the VR jumper to find the answer.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Great ideas. I sketched out a signal flow chart, I see everything connected.
So I understand I will get another relay, and run wire from starter relay (big stud where everything is connected) to the 30 pin, then run wire from 87 pin to the VR ign , then run a ground from pin 85, then (and this is my question) connect the existing blue wire which was connected to IGN on vr, instead connect it to 86 pin?
That blue wire (R5) is running from the ballast connection which has been removed and junctioned together along with the H and Q wires running in/out of bulkhead to the ignition switch.
Since 86 is just a trigger, does it make any difference if it is running through all those wires (J3,J2,J2A,R5)
Is 15a fuse acceptable? along with 16g wires?

thanks for any help and suggestions. I eagerly read them all.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

NO, it takes so little amps to power trigger or activate electromagnet that closes slave switch or contactor that would no be a problem

?

Probably an 18 gage conductor would be over kill, and 5 amp fuse more than enough. For giggles measure the resistance of trigger coil and calculate its amp draw. It ain't much, I'd do it for you, but don't have a relay handy. V= IxR or for current or amps I= V/R use 13.4 v.


Disconnect factory blue wire from VR, if memory serves it splices into 12v side of ballast resistor and connect to starter relay stud via new relay. This will give regulator a clean look at battery voltage.

New charging circuit conductor bypassing firewall can go directly from stud on alternator to positive battery terminal. There are several thoughts on the size/gage of & number of conductors, and fusing method to be used. Slantsix Dan has several postings on this you may want to take a look at. Making this bypass directly to battery will require that the red wire from starter relay to fusible link at bulkhead connector and points beyond on to cockpit under dash must remain to power fuse panel. I recommend you keep red wire landed on amp gage to prevent taped loos end from shorting on something under dash, and remove black wire from amp gage and at alternator; leave black wire incased in loom wrap dead ended at both ends should one want to resurrect factory set-up.

By making this change in electron flow to charge battery, amp gage won't show any positive needle pointing because all electron flow will come from battery. Factory used amp gage as an electron path flow and volume device. In other words is balance of current supplied from battery (gage reads negative) or from alternator (gage reads plus) while car is operating.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

update: I was able to install a new relay for the ignition as discussed. And I do have improved stability of voltage, at least from the voltage meter. I am now fluctating between 14.1 - 14.6 when idle. And when driving it narrows to between 14.4 - 14.6. With lights on, this number drops a bit, and lights still flicker but ok, I guess that is how it is.

Want to ask, I tried the Blue Voltage regulator and it keeps voltage lower, like around 13.4 - 13.6. Why does it do that? Yes, I scraped off the paint and grounded it.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6