I just bought a 1974 Plymouth duster with a 225. The battery is wiped out but there's no point in getting a new one if the carb isn't fit to run.
It's not original to the car, the VIN rated it economy class and someone at some point straight piped the car.

The problem right now, as you'll see in the pictures is it has no choke.
This isn't the worst unfortunately.

The throttle cable will not return to idle after pushing the accelerator as well as this bracket (red arrow) was hanging off and won't really stay on. it's also kinked but i don't think that's too serious, i can't just tighten it up.
Is that the kickdown linkage?

My only experience with carburetors are single barrel motorcycle carbs so a four barrel is a little overwhelming.
Can someone help me figure out what is missing?


Can't find an option to upload images to the site so i posted them to imgur.
http://imgur.com/a/1sxHR

Your poor duster! Somebody did a half a$$ed job installing a bunch of stuff that didn't work quite right... I'm sorry you get to sort out this mess... welcome to the board, you have come to the right place.

If you intend to keep the car, you'll be needing a factory manual for it, and if you intend on keeping the 4 barrel, you will need to get a book on Holley Carburators (Dave Emmanuel book is a good one)...

We need a picture of the other side of the carburator to see what is left from the choke being removed.... (it might also let us know if the carb has been modded, in which case, it may need to be reset to factory base settings (if it's not been rejetted, etc.. it will run on a stock engine, but will provide no added power benefit).

Things that are just not good looking at the picture:

Throttle Cable not hooked up right (that clamp isn't the best), and I will bet the cable is not the correct length to do the job...

There is no throttle return spring or bracket (you will need to see what is in the aftermarket aisle that can bolt to a Holley 4150/4160 carb)... the carb has a helper spring but it is not strong enough to stand alone as the return spring... it's a 'just in case' spring...

Down by the arrows is the stock kickdown linkage...which someone thought would work like that, and didn't even add a hairpin with a washer to try and keep it on.... but it won't work like that... start looking for a cable kickdown kit (like Lokar).

Some future items of improvement will be to get rid of the stock exhaust pipe and get a 2 1/4" pipe from the exhaust flange to the muffler, then 2' out...that will help the exhaust side since you already have more than enough on the intake side.

I also would stop by the local junkyard and get a 1992 Dakota 5.2L starter and replace the original version you have (smaller, lighter, and winds faster... and bolts right up)...


Where are you located?

Wow, that's a lot of information, thanks.
Yeah my first clue someone butchered this thing is the straight pipe barely hanging off the back.

The Holley has definitely seen better days. It's starting to rust down the venturi. Unfortunately i need to keep it for the time being as money will be getting tight and i may need to move this thing once in a while.

The problem i'm having with the throttle cable is that it will actually return, if it is physically secured to the accelerator. I know that the cable itself is supposed to act as a spring on the gas pedal but if i can get it solidly fixed to the pedal it will work okay. A cheaper option would just be to buy a cable stop but Autozone isn't open until tomorrow .

I stuck a folded spring in a opening and tied it for the time being keeping the throttle cable fixed to the butterfly.
I supposed i can just bolt the kickdown linkage into it's proper place for now.
It looks like a flimsy setup so i'm going to upgrade at some point.

I've got a brand new battery on a charger right now and hopefully i can actually get the engine to turn over in a few hours.

I'm in south east Pennsylvania by the way.

The spring is at the carb, the pedal just follows the action of the cable...

If the cable isn't secured at the fire wall with it's C clip, and not properly hooked up to the gas pedal...that will be problematic, next in line is making sure the cable is the correct length and the inner wire actually moves without binding up.

That banana shaped linkage piece all the arrows are pointed at needs to be flipped over and a kickdown linkage tensioner spring added to pull the whole linkage up towards the carb.

The throttle cable setup doesn't look too bad to me (I've seen worse) but I would verify that you are actually getting full throttle lever travel (the throttle opens all the way when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor). You may find that the cable needs to pull the throttle lever from a lower position to achieve full throttle lever travel.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

It is secured at the firewall. It simply doesn't want to return. I think the problem is at the carburetor side. If i hold it with the pedal and move it back and forth it doesn't kink or bind whatsoever and functions like it should which is why i was looking for a way to secure it to the pedal.

http://imgur.com/Ni1BfIg

However it does have some bends in the wire near the carb but they aren't a problem unless i mess with it.
I can confirm that it's wide open all the way when the pedal has been pushed to the floor. I think the cable is the right length but it just has to way to return to idle maybe.

Also i've secured the kickdown linkage to the extension with a bolt and wingnut (i know, it's dumb) and it looks like it'll work as it should maybe. at almost wide open it'll force the linkage downward.

From the picture you are missing a little black plug that fite in the large upper hole and keeps the cable in the little notch below it....

If the picture shows the pedal at rest, and the throttle plates are closed the cable mount or clamp is not in the correct spot, you will need to get a return spring and bracket to help the throttle lever return to closed which will also help the condition.

The cable wants to pop out on the bottom hole. Do you have a picture of this plug? is it just a tiny grommet?
at pictured is wide open throttle, the spring has just not returned. Im thinking the return spring is worn out maybe, it's on there it's just not doing its job.
I may have to trailer the car over to someone smarter than me to figure it out.

Welcome to the board and to the wonderful world of MOPARS.
You picked a fine example of the breed.
what is being said is, the little spring on there now, is to small to do the job.
You need a bigger spring. Then your gas pedal will stay up and you will feel tension when you step on it.

Sounds like you have a handle on the kick down issue. One thing I must mention is, with the Mopar automatic. If the kick-down is not properly adjusted it could burn up the transmission.

As for the cable end at the pedal.
Yes it is like a plastic plug and keeps the cable in the lower small opening on the pedal lever.

Both of these can be had at the help center in your local car parts store.

Good Luck

Have fun with your new toy.

I'm going to link a couple of pics form the web to illustrate....

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforu ... pg.222155/

Although picture is for a V-8 this is what your setup should look like...


Plug looks like this:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/att ... 714960070/

Welcome aboard.

I also had a few Holley 390 challenges when I got my 67 Dart. Although it had its electric choke, everything else was out of tune, incorrectly connected, leaking air in all the wrong places, and other issues.

Don’t be afraid to rebuild this four barrel, it is just 2 double barrel carbs living in one casting: primary, the front section engine runs on all the time, and secondary, the rear half when increase demand on engine requires additional air& fuel. Books listed will help with tuning both halves, and explain the four phases governing this carburetor operation.

Holley has every part you need except the lower casting housing throttle plates and can be found at Summit, Jegs and other venders to make that thing work. The learning curve will be understanding how the carburetor operates, and figuring out if air fuel ratios are correct for your application; simple in concept but will require some head scratching before it all sinks in.
Below are a few photos of my set-up mounted on a Clifford aftermarket 4 barrel intake manifold, its Chrysler conversion accelerator & kick-down cable adapter bracket (390 comes out of the box rigged for Ford application and needs to be adapted to Chrysler)



Curved gold anodized bracket cables are fixed to is Chrysler adapter that corrects or synchronizes throttle cable and kick down cable travel for engine and transmission. HLY-20-7



Return springs & bracket from Summit SUM-G1327. I also installed a Bouchillon universal cable bracket.



See O2 sensor welded into exhaust pipe. I had a hard time figuring out air fuel mixture due to low vacuum at idle, and higher vacuum at high rpm due to a lopey over lapping cam that has different A/F mixture requirements between idle and 6000 rpm. That device may not be needed where you have a stock engine with hopefully a good vacuum signal. But just for general info take a look at this site for tuning carb.

Electric choke part numbers can be found on Holley’s site. I used Holley rebuild kit: Trick Kit 37-720. It has all the parts to refresh your 8007 back to stock condition.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

0-8007 comes out of the box with the universal lever that Vamisk has that will accept the Holley made Chrysler Peg, or the Carter peg from a BBD/AFB/AVS/TQ for the cable (I bought a new one back in 2005 and all the new ones come this way, I have a core that was from Pre-1992 that is also this way- the way to tell here is the carb base plate doesn't have a backfire protection valve... the only other way to rig it, would be to swap the throttle shafts with an 1848 or a 6299)

0-6299 which was engineered for Pinto/Mustang II 4 cylinder race application has the Ford Lever in your pic (also same as 0-1848 450 cfm carb).... I would check your base plate, one of the ears should also bear the 4 digit number (6299 or 8007)... if you have a 8007 throttle body and a 6299 baseplate....that might also explain some issues with tuning...

Be warned that the Holley Rebuild kit for this carb will give you sticker shock at about $70 over the counter at your local auto parts store, it may be a bit less if ordered through an online merchant... note using an off brand kit may cause issues with sealing and incorrect parts further multiplying frustration... the kits don't come with jets, but will come with the power valve, if it's stock you will have #50 jets (stamped on the side of the jet)in the primary side, and plate number '34' on the secondary side. Secondary Spring will be silver colored or as Holley calls it 'Plain'.

Thanks for the pictures guys, i have an idea what's going on with this now. I should be able to do some voodoo to get it running around the yard at least

I jumped the starter and it started to crank so my starter needs repaired. Should give me enough time to start fixing things.

The kickdown lever isn't inspiring confidence.
If you don't mind me asking, what exactly is happening with the kickdown linkage?
I didn't see it before but it's actually kicking down when returning to idle (not good)

Someone really messed up this carburetor guys.

I had to install backfire kit, so pre 90's. Interesting tid-bit on ear casting number and throttle body number matching.

Just took a look-see for ear flange casting number, none to be found that I could see without removing carb from intake.

Holley trick kit I listed above is $41.98 at Summit, Jegs and others will be close. Yes, the exact Holley 8007 kit is a lot more dough. Jets and power valve sizing will take place after the rebuild if needed, it all depends your engine's vacuum signal, weight & rear gear of car as to which power valve will be required. There are several video's on Holley web site (see Holley TV) to guide one in tuning and selecting correct PV and jets for this carburetor.

Holley teck page may help when you start a rebuild.

First you need to get the cables connected correctly, a choke installed be it electric or cable operated, and the Holley tuning book recommended back a few posts.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Alright i bought a new throttle cable assembly and i've got the trick kit on a sticky pad stuck to my computer monitor.
Turns out the starter is borked, it'll crank if i jump it but that needs to get repaired.
After that i'm going to buy that lokar linkage kit.
I figure it'll be better to do it the right way then to try to continue ghetto rigging it to help it function.
In the mean time my fuel lines are cracking.

Thanks everyone for your help. I think i can manage from here but i wanted to ask about Thermoquads on a /6. Specifically would that be too much cfm for the engine?